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Routes in Toats Coulee - Middle Fork (Loomis)

A Clockwork Orange T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Garden Path, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gravity's Rainbow S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
In White Helmets S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Kim-eality S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lost and Found S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Peakin' At Windy S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sunrise S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
T Time S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Weather Station S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Zen Caterpillar S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
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Type: Trad, 125 ft
FA: Sept. 2012
Page Views: 61 total · 1/month
Shared By: applewood on May 27, 2013
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Description

THE GARDEN PATH 5.7 * 125’' M (3b)
Begin either from the large ledge (as for Gravity's Rainbow) or in the sloping alcove 15' to the left (below the corner crack). Climb the broken face about 15'’ left of Gravity’'s Rainbow through various intermittent cracks and faces. The lower part is gear protected 5.5 climbing, the upper part has a few bolt protected face moves (way better than the first half). Belay on top at the large ledge (3 bolt belay - 1 smashed). A wide range of cams and/or nuts are needed to protect the climb.

V1 – 5.5 125'’ G – avoid the bolts (stay right in the crack the whole way up). Dirtier, but a totally trad and easier variation.

V2 – 5.7 100'’ M (2b) – traverse right to the chain anchors for Gravity's Rainbow below the third bolt.

Location

5th route from right

Protection

mixed

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