|Pratt's Crack / Dihedrals Area
Ridicu-classic and surprisingly secure.
A long and beautiful offwidth in a giant clean-cut dihedral. This is one of the most obvious lines in the canyon. If you're up for a good grovel then hop on.
During colder months, hit this early in the morning as it dips into the shade around noon, maybe earlier. In fact you may not see it at all. Tends to be a windy canyon. Two 60 meter ropes to rappel.
You can see the route from the road on the left side of the two giant dihedrals. "Pratt's" splits the classic white Sierra granite on the right and the dark patina wall on the left. Hard to miss!
Gear to 10", small TCU's useful deep in the secondary crack, BIG camalots and friends (#6), up to blue big bro (but not necessary), and chockstones. Bolt anchor.
From: Lyons, CO
Jul 12, 2007
A blue big bro (10") could be useful if you have one (I did not), as there is a 15 foot section that is bigger than the green one(8"). Only a single set of cams is necessary as you can walk a #6 friend up most of the way.
|By DJ Reyes|
From: Northern Nevada
Feb 13, 2009
There is a second pitch which I thought was a little harder than the first pitch. It is also quite memorable. There are rappel anchors on the top.
|By Jay Eggleston|
Aug 5, 2009
A really fun climb and much easier than it looks. There are lots of face holds and features on the edge of the crack. It really is not your typical off-width grovel.
|By Luke Stefurak|
From: Mountain View, CA
Sep 21, 2009
Despite the large size very little gear is needed for this route. I suggest 1 #6 C4 and 1 #5 C4 (or same sized friends) and then 2-3 finger size pieces (yellow and grey aliens). Also bring many slings and/or quickdraws for chockstones.
A second #6 and #5 could be brought but you really just push the #6 above you until the crack gets too big (8" -10") then you just squeeze in until it thins down again!
|By Jon Clark|
From: Philadelphia, PA
Sep 12, 2011
The climb can be adequately protected without the big gear by slinging chockstones and plugging small cams on the wall to the left. I didn't place anything larger than a #2 or #3 camalot.
|By Richard Shore|
Jun 11, 2012
+1 Jonathans recommendation above. I brought two #3 camalots for the beginning (placed deep), slung 3 or 4 chockstones, and a few yellow aliens for up high. Unless you have some BigBros, plan on running it out 30' or so up to the chains. The climbing is not at grade through this section, as the right wall has many juggy face features.
|By Michael Ybarra|
From: on the road
Jun 18, 2012
I found big gear of very little use. Low on the route there's a pod deep in the crack that takes a #4 (or probably something else on the side), which I was glad to place between the slung chockstones. Any place I tried to use a #6 it was so tipped out that I wouldn't have dared to fall on it. The only secure place for it was to protect the exit moves, which were easy and by that time I was runout 25 feet anyway. A #5 is useless. The small crack on the left wall that others have mentioned is a looong way up. It took a gold C3 and a little higher a bomber red C4, which I thought was the Jesus piece of the whole route. The above is all the gear I used. Slinging chocks is really what this climb is all about.
From: Tucson, AZ
Sep 4, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
But... I cannot imagine how you could say a #6 BD is tipped out on this route??? I walked mine for a good 50 feet. Actually took 2, cause I like pro. Used them both, heavily. Seriously, what route were you on???? Yes after 50 of about 150 feet, you're done w the 6's....so they don't work? 50 feet of stout 5.9 off width, off the deck, is a good place to pay attention.
Also there is a great 5 if you look for it. And yes at least 4 chockstones to sling. But again this route is loooong, and frankly I thought the much-praised gear on the left was tricky and not at all inspiring- that crack is quite shallow. So for those who want a gear list that will sew this up nicely:
2 #6's, 1 #5, 1-2 blue big bros (i had one, placed it too early, and had a 30 foot runout to chains, next time I bring a 2nd...), and many slings for chockstones, you can bring yellow to black metolious but don't expect much from these pieces, and you can get a #0 metolious as the last piece before the chains if the runout has you frazzled....
|By Phil Esra|
May 27, 2014
I brought a huge rack. Everything but the big stuff just got in my way. I placed
two #4s, one #5, and two #6s (#5s would have fit better than the #4s if I had them), and clipped 3 slung chockstones. This required a 50-60' runout on easy-ish terrain; to protect it "well" would require at least one piece wider than a #6.
The climbing is pretty moderate after the last chockstone, but it's a long way before a #6 will fit again. After it narrows enough to take a #6 again it gets quite easy. I didn't look for the alleged little stuff on the wall my back was against--it was too awkward to keep an eye out for; I just wanted to get that second #6 off my harness asap.
The climb requires very little actual OW technique (just short sections here and there), but it's still quite awkward in a classically offwidth way. I found leading it to be surprisingly annoying. I imagine toproping it, without all the giant gear in the way and without the rope constantly in the way of the footholds on the arete, would be more fun. Actually, maybe just tying your knot so that it hangs below you would make a big difference--then the rope would run inside the crack instead of down the arete, where you have to fight it for the footholds.
A beautiful, beautiful line that is nicer to look at than climb.
(I also brought one of the #6s on Sheila, right next door. Next time I would just risk the clean fall onto the good cam immediately below the wide section. Climbing with a #6 just sucks.)
|By Johnny Y|
Jul 6, 2014
Way more impressive to see this in person! The section down low feels similar to Ivory Tower Left, except there are more features for your hands and feet - so don't get intimidated and get on it!
Next time I would bring a pair of comfortable shoes, 1#6, 2#5, a #4 or #3 for the bottom half. Then blue bigbro and some finger sized gears for the top half, but the climbing there is very secure and you have to run it out regardless.
Jul 22, 2014
I just did this last week, and Ybarra's gear beta makes no sense. You can walk a WC #6 for most of the bottom, and then finally again towards the top. There is definitely a little blank stretch in the upper half though, where the gear goes away and so did my heel-toe.
In no particular order, I used a single WC#6 and two WC #5, two BD #4, a #2 metolious on the side wall, a BD #0.5 against a chockstone, and a couple of small nuts on that side wall. I probably could have gotten a few more things in, but I ran out of slings pretty quickly with all the chockstone slinging. One of my #5s was way up high and not really necessary, and one of my #4s was way down low and equally unnecessary. I seem to recall getting in a #3 somewhere down low last time, but this time I just ended up carrying them all the way up with me.