The walls across the creek from the Trailside Wall...
A trailside crag with easy access, a couple dozen great sport routes and a few decent trad lines, and evening shade to escape summertime heat. Although new and relatively limited in scope, this has quickly become a favored venue with the local climbers.
There are walls lining both sides of the creek, with the only developed walls being adjacent to the trail (and just up the hill) just past the diversion dam.
Driving Directions: Drive to the small mountain town of Story, which is about equidistant from both Sheridan and Buffalo. Set your odometer here and follow these directions carefully; it's a bit confusing navigating through Story for the first time. 0 miles: Chuckwagon gas station in Story. Turn right onto 194. .6 miles: The junction with 340 on the right (large wooden signboard). Continue straight in 194. 2.6 miles: There is a park/playground on the right. 194 makes a 90 degree turn around the park before continuing a short distance to the Fish Hatchery. Instead of following 194 around the 90 degree turn, continue straight ahead onto Thorne Rider Road (graded dirt), which is marked by the green sign-Youth Camp. 3.3 miles: Thorne Rider Road ends in a gate with the sign-Authorized Vehicles Only. Park here. Approach Directions: Walk past the gate and continue up the relatively flat roadbed until the Forest Service boundary is reached after about 1/2 mile. Shortly after the boundary, the trail passes between the creek on the left and the cliffs on the right. The first routes are found about 100m past the diversion dam on the creek. Hiking time is approximately 10 minutes from your car.
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Piney Creek Canyon:
Start out of the chimney on the first 3 bolts of "Over Forty" up to the small roof (look for key sinker mono) where it cuts right to the arete, pull directly over the roof (1st crux) on crisp crimps with pitiful smeary feet and into pockets, underclings, and edges up to a great jug stance before the sequential and steep final headwall which is climbed just right of the gold streak on thin pockets (2nd crux) to a juggier finish up the arete to the apex of the wall. A cerebral route with engaging ...[more]Browse More Classics in WY
Rock Climbs of the Eastern Bighorns is finally on the shelves! It provides comprehensive beta for Piney Creek Canyon and nine other major crags of Sheridan/Buffalo area. Available at retailers throughout the area like: Rendezvous Trading Co., Backcountry Bicycles, Bighorn Mountain Sports, Sports Lure. PM me if you want a copy mailed.
This area should be on the short list for any regional climbers. I climbed on the Trailside Wall yesterday for the first time in 8 years and had an absolute blast. Bowman did a great job bolting, cleaning, and picking choice lines.