Pig Pen 5.12a/b
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| Type: | Sport, 40 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12- [details] |
| FA: | Boone Speed |
| Submitted By: | hEatchel on May 7, 2009 |
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BETA PHOTO: Pig Pen 12a/b
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Description Steepest section of rock. Amazing pockets leads to center crux. followed by huge slots to the chains. STEEP!
Location Little Mill Campground .. no more campsite .. obvious steeeeeeep rock on side of road.
Protection QD's
By Bad Sock Puppet From: Utah Aug 23, 2009 rating: 5.12a
| I've said this about several climbs in American Fork but I'll say it again, a must do classic! Boone Speed really hit the mark with this one. Easiest approach in the canyon. Start on a verticle face up to the high first bolt right at the beginning of the overhang. The face is littered with positive holds, but nothing but big moves will leave you pumped. Making dropknees your best friend will make this one a cinch. |
By Ryan Stott From: Salt Lake City, UT Apr 27, 2012
| BSP is right. This is a must-do classic for AF, and there are no excuses to check it out, since the approach is zero. Pig Pen is the furthest right of the 3 climbs on this wall. Woodstock is the steep climb up the arete of this wall, but it isn't on Mountain Project. A useful hold broke off Woodstock last weekend, and it is a bit harder than 12b now. |
By KipHenrie From: centerville, utah May 24, 2012 rating: 5.12a/b
| For the 12a climber this will be a fabulous workout. For me there were 3 definite cruxes. The holds are actually fairly positive with some huge jugs - yet the past vertical climbing will wear you out. Long moves and finding the right feet with the clock ticking is the name of the game. Go send it. 9 stars. |
By Brennan Crellin From: Draper, UT Jul 2, 2012 rating: 5.12a/b
| Low-grade climb to high first bolt. Sustained large moves on bomber holds through all bolts to chains. Crux in center at right-slanted flake. Proper sequence and high feet on the big moves make this an awesome climb! |
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