Overcoming "fear of the gear"

Struggling trad climber looking for some much needed advice.

I have been training pretty hard this season, and I have experienced some pretty dramatic improvements in my overall strength and technique. I would have never hopped on a 5.10c sport climb to "warmup" a year ago, but now I am routinely doing so, and redpointing often. So physically, I have the strength to climb at that level and perhaps even harder. I've taken some falls on sport climbs, although it's not something I do very often. I'm more apt to downclimb or take before I lob off most sport routes, and I generally have no issues with the integrity of the bolts where I climb.

However, when I hop on easier trad climbs in the 5.7-5.9 range, I get freaked out easily. In the back of my mind, I tell myself "You're a 5.10 climber, you can cruise this 5.8 trad route...just focus and get in good gear." But even when I have great gear, it's difficult convincing myself that the gear is reliable. I'll admit, I usually only attempt to lead routes that are VERY well protected and well below my trad "limit". Even in those cases, I'll take before I risk falling on my gear...even very short falls of less than 5'. I could probably be leading 5.9 trad consistently if I could just break out of the mental rut I've been in.

I consider myself to be a knowledgeable climber who understands proper gear placement, limitations of gear, etc. I would say that 95% of the gear I place is textbook, primarily because I don't climb routes that generally require creative gear placements or routes with sketchy gear or long runouts. I also find myself following a lot of pitches that I most certainly could lead from a purely physical perspective, but mentally I end up sabotaging myself.

I have read the Rock Warrior's Way more times than I care to admit over the past several years, but I have a hard time putting the principles into practice.

Is there anyone else out there that is experiencing the same frustrations I am right now...where your mind is holding you back? What did you do to overcome your trust in the gear you place?

I feel I am on the verge of a breakthrough in my climbing, if I could just manage the "fear of the gear." I so badly want to challenge myself, learn, and improve, yet I feel my brain has another agenda.

I have a buddy that says the same thing about Indian Creek. I doubt I'll be able to get out there this season, however.

Every time I pick up a new piece of gear, whether it be harness, rope , pro, belay device, etc. I'll take time time to read the tags, and then put it through the paces on flat level ground to get familiar with what it will do, and more importantly, what it won't do.
When I feel pretty well acquainted with the gear, I'll move to vertical terrain and bounce test it. Again finding out what it's limitations are. I've landed on my back and knocked the wind outta myself more a few times exceeding a piece of gears limits, but better to experience it a few feet off the ground than decking from real heights.
It has gone a long way to help me trust my gear and to figure out what is acceptable and what is not.

I recommend that you quit climbing sport routes. Eventually you will get used to trad and trad gear.

Count Chockula wrote: it's not how I'd prefer to spend my precious climbing days. I'd be happier TRing a hard 5.11 than attempting to lead a PG rated trad route at my limit.

At some point you'll have to get out on those PG routes to gain the experience of being in that situation. I'm taking this comment to mean that even though you say you'd like to push your trad leading, ultimately you're not willing to do what you need to actually get the experience.
I realize that jumping off the deep end and casting off on sketching lines hoping that you gain more expertise and self knowledge before you get yourself killed is probably not the best way to go.

So much of a routes difficulty or danger is opinion/perception... some people may think route X makes a great free solo, while I'd probably crap myself just thinking about leading it w/ all the gear I could take.
I'd say that doing some homework here on MP and talking to climbers in general to find out what the consensus is on some trad routes that are nearer to your current abilities. Find routes that are challenging but for the most part are safe, if a routes got a reputation, even if it's got no PG/R rating you'll find out about it.
But I guess that really, you'll never know what a route holds for you or how hard or scary it will feel until you get up there. And at least in my experience, sometimes it's not nearly as bad as I thought it would be.
Try and enjoy the process, for most of us I'm not sure that we ever fully master the mental game of climbing.
BA

Bon Temps wrote:Every time I pick up a new piece of gear, whether it be harness, rope , pro, belay device, etc. I'll take time time to read the tags, and then put it through the paces on flat level ground to get familiar with what it will do, and more importantly, what it won't do. ... It has gone a long way to help me trust my gear and to figure out what is acceptable and what is not.

This is good advice. And the idea of getting on well protected stuff with challenging climbing is real good, as well. Psyching up for scary climbing takes practice.

find a bolted crack in boulder canyon, climb up to a bolt slightly below a crack with a good clean fall below it. place your piece and fall on it. if it blows you have the bolt backing it up.

do this quite a bit with increasingly marginal gear and you will get a good feel for what is good and what isn't. you'll be surprised at some of the marginal pieces that hold. and, you might be surprised a time or two by something that doesn't hold.

climber pat wrote:I recommend that you quit climbing sport routes. Eventually you will get used to trad and trad gear.

Tell me about it...I don't climb trad as much as I'd like to for a variety of reasons, but I get out as often as I can.

Brent Apgar wrote:I'm taking this comment to mean that even though you say you'd like to push your trad leading, ultimately you're not willing to do what you need to actually get the experience.

You're correct...and it pisses me off! I always convince myself that I will do it the next time out, but then I chicken out.

shuminW wrote: You ask a long, winded question, you get a perfect, succinct answer, and you are making excuses? Btw, stop reading and analyzing Rock Warrior's Way, at this point all it'll do is fuck with your head.

Going to Indian Creek wasn't exactly the answer I was looking for, even though it may hold a lot of truth. I was hoping that others are going (or have gone) through similar experiences and are willing to share how they overcame similar "irrational" fears.

I should point out that I have been climbing for 11 years (~5 years trad), so I'm not exactly new to the game...just chicken shit, I guess.

its time to sac up, the gear works. If you dont allow yourself to take that risk you'll be that same 5.7 trad climber you are now. sounds boring to me. find an overhung 5.10 sport and take a few clean falls

How are you going about "hopping" on climbs? Personally, when I am getting ready to lead something that I think will be scary, I take time to sit, breathe, close my eyes, and calm my mind. I guess that's what you'll read in the Rock Warrior's Way, but I haven't read it. Either way, there's a difference between racking up and being physically ready, and being mentally ready (which you have found out). Really take the time to get your head right BEFORE you leave the ground.

Then, you also must realize that the fear may never leave your head during the climb. More often, it gets compartmentalized and pushed to the back of the mind, not forgotten. Your focus has to overcome the fear.

And yes, taking a few falls should help. Plug a couple bomber cams next to each other and go for it. If there are bolted cracks in Boulder Canyon (an atrocity, IMO), that's a great resource you should take advantage of.

Good luck!

JP Rohde wrote:its time to sac up, the gear works. If you dont allow yourself to take that risk you'll be that same 5.7 trad climber you are now. sounds boring to me. find an overhung 5.10 sport and take a few clean falls

Yup...it's all about growing some scro...totally agree.

I have taken many clean sport falls this season. While that has done wonders for my sport climbing head, it hasn't translated to more confident trad climbing for obvious reasons...bolts vs gear.

I'm certainly not trying to chase the grades with my trad climbing...I just know I am physically capable of climbing harder trad routes, but my brain doesn't agree.

Count,

You are right that falling on your gear will help you get over the problem. I understand how forcing yourself to take falls on gear can be very difficult.

It is good that you understand how strong a well-placed piece is. Unfortunately our instinctive drive NOT to fall from high places does not always respond to logic. A good way to get at this is to slowly and incrementally get your brain used to the idea that falls can be safe and fun.

In the case you describe I suggest starting with very short falls - even a few inches if necessary. Repeat this several times each time you go climbing until you are completely comfortable falling this very short distance. Maybe that will take a month or more. That's fine, just keep at it.

Then try falling just a bit further - perhaps a foot. Again, repeat this many times every time you go out until you are very comfortable. It is key that you do this on bomber placements only (so the gear doesn't pull and set you back) and not freak yourself out by taking longer falls before you are ready.

Climb more. Lead everything, from today forward you aren't allowed to toprope or follow anything. You have to change your perception of leading, from what it is now- a scary optional thing to do- into the status quo. Climbing is leading. Start off with what you're completely comfortable on, and just keep pushing. Things can progress pretty fast when you buckle down and just start working on it.

I feel like this is one of those questions people ask hoping there's some magical solution. There isn't one, it's going to be hard work.

I know where you're coming from, when I started climbing I was never afraid of the fall. At some point I realized pulling on gear or saying "take!" was an option and I've been a little freaked out the last couple years. Your head is like your body, work it out and it gets stronger.

Yeah...not looking for a magical solution, but rather general insights from others that have dealt with similar situations in their trad climbing.

I appreciate many of the responses...lots of good stuff to ponder.

On a related issue, trad is DIFFERENT from sport. The difference really means you need a different approach.

With sport you can climb until you're within reach of the next bolt, find a decent hold, and clip. Trad is the other way around. You need much more strategy to climb a trad pitch effectively.

Take your time looking at the route and figuring out where you think good solid stances are. Those are places you want to place gear. You don't want to just climb until you feel like you're too far run out and need to jam some gear in, you'll end up placing from a strenuous position and pumping out.

Every time you're in a restful stance, take your time, shake out, asses what's above you. Figure out your gear and plan your next moves before you start making them.

It might be hard at first, but it's a skill you need and it'll grow quickly too.

as much as the rock warrior's way gets press, i think dave mcleod's small book on trad leading has some better points. its probably good to look through both and glean out what works for you. one really good point that dave makes is that even on really hairy routes, there are usually spots where you can make a decision to bail. i know this sounds ultra contrary to arno's advice, but it might help you to look at the route and have backup plans. this will help you to feel less out of control. it might not necessarily help with your fear of falling, but it will probably help you feel more confident about getting on a route that is closer to your limit.

My first gear fall was because I got sandbagged and had to take it. Not the best way to experience your first fall, but it turned out ok and it worked. You can also "sandbag" yourself by not reading a guidebook so much. A good mentorship, where someone very experienced is checking your gear, you will know what is a good placement. Once you can inspect your own placements, tell your self "it is fine to fall" if you get into a situation where you think you may. Get out of your head and just let go.

I don't climb to fall, and practicing falling I think is kind of dumb. You can potential damage your gear, the rock, and yourself/partner. Not exactly LNT. Down-climbing is often a better strategy, especially on multi, where consequences are much higher. Ever see grooves in granite from spots where people have fallen on gear? I have... That is just my opinion. Do whatever works for you.

grooves in the granite? must be some soft granite....

johnL wrote:You need to go to Indian Creek. It's gear but it's basically sport. It's a great place to take your first falls on gear.

What?

slim wrote:grooves in the granite? must be some soft granite....

Pretty solid granite at Looking Glass, NC. Its only a point that falling can and sometimes will alter the rock.

Go climb a big wall, C1 like the nose, You will be dialed after one wall.