Orange You Lichen It? 5.11- PG13
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11b [details] |
| FA: | Cory Fleagle (Sept. 2011) |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Season: | all |
| Submitted By: | Cor on May 4, 2012 |
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BETA PHOTO: Wayne Crill on starting crack.
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Description This is a nice little route uphill from Vampire Rock / Black Widow Slab areas. It has fun but hard to read climbing. An onsight would be proud! Start in small crack (between orange lichen streaks - crux) and continue up the wall. Pull over a small bulge/overhang and angle up face near right hand arete.
The crux crack feels a bit committing because of the ground being close and a lack of gear. There is a really good stopper placement (long reach) that does protect the crux, although it is hard to reach up and clip it in.... The stopper is fixed. A stick might be nice to clip it? All in all, it is not too bad though.
There is a bolted anchor on a ledge most of the way up the wall.
Location Ascend gully between Vampire / Black Widow, continue up faint trail to a small wall. This wall can be seen from the road (look for bright orange lichen).
Protection Standard rack to a #2 Camalot max. Two #0.75s are good. Offset cams work well also. A gray/purple Metolius cam works well in a horzontal near the top.
| Comments on Orange You Lichen It? |
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By Cor
May 4, 2012
| There is another route on this wall to the left of orange you lichen it.
The other climb (not sure who did it) goes up face with three bolts,
then goes to trad out some small overhangs. At the top, there is a one bolt anchor. You can back it up with a cam, then scramble right to my anchors to descend, or walk off top.
This climb is 5.10ish. |
By Wayne Crill
From: an Altered State
May 7, 2012
rating: 5.11-
| I Lichened it! Another great find HC. Worthwhile to tromp up the gully for these two fun lines. |
By Steve Sangdahl
From: eldo sprngs,co
May 7, 2012
| Cor, The other 3 bolt route was put up by Bob Horan. 5.10 sounds about right. Not sure who he did this with. Steve S. |
By Liz Donley
May 9, 2012
rating: 5.11+ PG13
| The route is very fun. The core muscles inside of my rib cage were sore for days after I TR'd it; however, I actually don't think that Cor and Wayne can tell the difference between 11- and 11+ sometimes.... I think it's harder! |
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