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Plastic holds bolted on Utah rock?!
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By samg
Dec 29, 2007

I've heard from a couple friends of mine that live in Utah Country that some ignoramus gymclimberus moronicus has bolted some plastic handholds on a wall right by the main running/biking trail that goes up Provo Canyon. Supposedly it is close to the mouth of the canyon.

They also mentioned that whoever did it also used glue in addition to bolting them/screwing them in and that it's a real eyesore.

Now, Provo Canyon isn't our beloved LCC, but having such an eyesore in an area that gets so much traffic is not going to do much for relations between climbers and the public- seems like the perfect fodder for some misconceived news article about the negative impact of climbers on public areas.

I think the holds should be chopped.

Also I think that we could use the situation to help educate people new to climbing outdoors by taking a photo of the wall before chopping the holds that we could post at gyms like the Quarry, Momentum, etc. along with a PSA explaining why the UT climbing community will not tolerate that kind of behavior in public areas.

What do you all think?


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By icsteveoh
From salt lake city, UT
Dec 29, 2007
white gold at maple.

break off the holds and pee on them.


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By Ryan Brough
From Arvada, Colorado
Dec 30, 2007
Chickenhead surfing at the beginning of S-Direct.

Sam:

My vote=chop.

The "education plan" is a good idea. I can't think of a better way to thwart the all-too-prolific "ignoramus gymclimberus moronicus".


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By dryfly
Jan 6, 2008

I live near there and run often on that trail. If I locate the glued holds, they will be gone and cleaned up.


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By Gaar
From Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Jan 6, 2008
Krunk Juice 12d (probably 2nd ascent?) <br />Zion NP <br />Photo Eric Draper

seems common out here.....ego ass holes!!!!!

Currently I live outside Saint George, where chipping, gluing, manufacturing, and FUCKING GLUING ON HOLDS is very common. O did I mention grid bolting!..I've pulled easily 5 fake holds off, and pulled down countless grid bolted P.O.S's I moved here from the east to climb, but the ethics are so fuckin pathetic it makes me sick! There are good people here, but most are wankers who don't know a quality route from a dick in their hand!

This is a sore subject for me and I apologize for my words, but this is how I feel..And the culprits for this should know how a number 5 cam against the face feels!


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By tenesmus
Jan 6, 2008

The St George scene can be amazing and also like Garr said. So many of the crags are accessible to a crowd who'd just as soon paint ball the whole thing. I saw a lot of the same redneck mentality in Georgia, Alabama and Tennessee and its unfortunate.


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By Lee Jensen
Jan 6, 2008
Top of the second pitch on Touchstone.

A whole lot of hearsay and generalization going on here. Does anyone have any real facts, or is this just a chance for people to rant?


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By Gaar
From Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Jan 7, 2008
Krunk Juice 12d (probably 2nd ascent?) <br />Zion NP <br />Photo Eric Draper

Facts! Grab the Sharpend guide book to climbing Southern Utah by Todd Goss.....When you have it I will specifically point out 5 LISTED (2 and 3 star) climbs that have glued holds on, and an entire manufactured wall with 8 routes of chipped and drilled holds!...And the book states it is generally accepted ethics!!! BULL FUCKIN SHIT

This should NEVER be a generally accepted ethic....even the most gymbalicious gumby would agree!


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By Joey Wolfe
Jan 7, 2008

tenesmus wrote:
The St George scene can be amazing and also like Garr said. So many of the crags are accessible to a crowd who'd just as soon paint ball the whole thing. I saw a lot of the same redneck mentality in Georgia, Alabama and Tennessee and its unfortunate.



I've lived in the south and the west, and the sad fact is you see this everywhere. Clear Creek has chipped holds. Boulder canyon has had spray painted peace signs at Happy Hour, and all types of crap at the sport park. T-wall has break-ins. Curahee has bolt wars and graffiti. But the absolute crazy shit I heard of comes out of sandrock in AL. They burnt a port-o-potty to the ground, who does that kind of crap?(rhetorical) I guess my point is ass-holes are everywhere, from SLC to Boulder to Chattanooga.In no way am i condoning it, just at one point i thought i could get away from it and realized it is everywhere. Enjoy and protect the places it hasn't spread as best you can. The idea about the signs at the gyms is a good idea.


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By tenesmus
Jan 7, 2008

But you can climb all afternoon in a pouring rain at Sandrock. No place like that here in slc. In general, some St George crags are a lot worse than other utah areas - maybe due to their roadside nature, toprope ease or something?

Man I miss the T-Wall this time every year.


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By bbrock
From Al
Jan 7, 2008
feeling free <br />

Joey Wolfe wrote:
I've lived in the south and the west, and the sad fact is you see this everywhere. Clear Creek has chipped holds. Boulder canyon has had spray painted peace signs at Happy Hour, and all types of crap at the sport park. T-wall has break-ins. Curahee has bolt wars and graffiti. But the absolute crazy shit I heard of comes out of sandrock in AL. They burnt a port-o-potty to the ground, who does that kind of crap?(rhetorical) I guess my point is ass-holes are everywhere, from SLC to Boulder to Chattanooga.In no way am i condoning it, just at one point i thought i could get away from it and realized it is everywhere. Enjoy and protect the places it hasn't spread as best you can. The idea about the signs at the gyms is a good idea.



yeah that's right we did burn it to the ground. It was totally full...what the hell else you gonna do. We can't pay for porta potty servicing with food stamps or moonshine...duhhhh. Huh maybe I could trade a night with my sister for some potty servicing. I call the honey pot man and see if that will work.

Oh yeah, and you should be missing T-Wall this time of year cause it's awesome.


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By Lee Jensen
Jan 7, 2008
Top of the second pitch on Touchstone.

I think the OP was talking specifically about plastic holds in Provo canyon, not a request for everyone to rant about every stupid action ever done at climbing area anywhere in the United States. That is a fine discussion, but I am very interested in the original posting.

Does anyone have any actual information about plastic holds being glued on in Provo Canyon? Do we know where they are? has anyone actually seen them? Do we have any clue who put them up?


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By Perin Blanchard
Administrator
From Orem, UT
Jan 7, 2008
Racking too much gear, as usual.

Lee Jensen wrote:
Do we know where they are? has anyone actually seen them? Do we have any clue who put them up?


I saw them on a walk up the canyon earlier this year (my son had mentioned them so I was keeping an eye out for them). There were four or five of them on a vertical bit of rock maybe 15 feet high. Seems like they were dark colored; I thought they were funny.

Don't have any idea who put them up.


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By Joey Wolfe
Jan 7, 2008

bbrock wrote:
yeah that's right we did burn it to the ground. It was totally full...what the hell else you gonna do. We can't pay for porta potty servicing with food stamps or moonshine...duhhhh. Huh maybe I could trade a night with my sister for some potty servicing. I call the honey pot man and see if that will work. Oh yeah, and you should be missing T-Wall this time of year cause it's awesome.


That is hilarious. I'm surprised the thing didn't go off like a bomb. I also should have made it clear that i heard it was another "recreational group" besides climbers that did the deed. I climb/have climbed at all the places i listed and enjoyed myself. And sorry about the thread hijack, but seriously, you need to discuss this? Chop the damn holds.


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By samg
Jan 12, 2008

Perin Blanchard wrote:
I saw them on a walk up the canyon earlier this year (my son had mentioned them so I was keeping an eye out for them). There were four or five of them on a vertical bit of rock maybe 15 feet high. Seems like they were dark colored; I thought they were funny. Don't have any idea who put them up.



Those are the ones. Maybe it's not that big of a deal, but it could be a slippery slope to worse perhaps.

I don't make it down to Utah County that often so if anyone down there wants to clean them up that would be cool... mostly it kind of made me think about ways of educating people new to the sport about ethics. Instead of just chopping what people put up, maybe get them to realize what they are doing.


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By dryfly
Jan 18, 2008

I found these, they consist of 6 holds, in an 8 square foot area, about 7 feet off the ground.I have no idea how to clean this mess up. Whoever bolted them on also put mucho construction adhesive all around and behind them. I am open to suggestions,but short of removing all of the affected rock,I dont see it as clean-upable.(is that a word?)


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By mikewhite
Feb 23, 2008
  Third bolt on last pitch of cheetah

Is this cleaned up yet?
If not then I will bring a generator and a grinder and take care of it.
Any idea who it was?


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By beerdrinker
Feb 24, 2008
err day i'm slothin'

so hot right now


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By Joseph Stover
From Batesville, AR
Feb 24, 2008

You have got to be kidding me!!! This must be up higher on the unethical act list than chipping holds... Is there a bed of gravel at the base and a water fountain nearby? I really don't know what to think about this.


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By Jon Ruland
From Tucson, AZ
Feb 24, 2008
sending Hard Day at the Orifice

Gaar wrote:
There are good people here, but most are wankers who don't know a quality route from a dick in their hand!


W I N

this is a sickening subject. it's one thing to bolt a line that cannot be protected with natural gear, but GLUING PLASTIC HOLDS ON ROCK??? why do you need them? are you just admitting that you can't pick out a natural line? are you that uncreative (or such a weak climber) that you can't find a line that you can climb without help?

climbers are already on the bad side of the public eye (eg chain anchors where anyone can see them, disturbing precious nesting birds, etc). whoever did this is just asking for access to be restricted. they need to get their dicks out of their hands and start thinking about the ramifications of their actions. or die in a fire.


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By mikewhite
Feb 24, 2008
  Third bolt on last pitch of cheetah

They wont be there much longer.
Who wants to go clean this up with me?
I dont know where they are so it would be nice to have someone show me the location.
Are they bolted and glued or just glued?

I cant belive nobody has taken care of this by now.


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By Richard Radcliffe
From Louisville, CO
Feb 24, 2008

mikewhite wrote:
Who wants to go clean this up with me? I dont know where they are so it would be nice to have someone show me the location.

Don't know for sure, but I'm betting you'll find them in photoshop...


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By JimG
Feb 24, 2008

A previous poster said "I found these, they consist of 6 holds, in an 8 square foot area, about 7 feet off the ground." I have not seen these myself, but I would guess this is the work of a boy scout or someone similar and not a serious climber. That paved trail gets hundreds of people along it every week, that spot is not the sort of place a serious climber would go to boulder, and it's not like we are lacking in plenty of real rock here in Utah. It probably isn't a bad idea to clean it up; it will create a bad impression amoung non-climbers using the trail if they see it. Hopefully this sort of thing will not catch on; I have never bought plastic holds but looking in the gear catalogs them seem kind of expensive. If the person who did this finds their $80 in plastic jugs missing maybe they will think twice about doing it again. mikewhite, if you do the clean-up, thanks for the effort. That probably isn't your favorite way to spend a Saturday afternoon.


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By JimG
Feb 24, 2008

The holds on the big sandstone boulder might be a manipulated image, I do not see anything chalked up; someone with photoshop and too much free time on their hands. If someone really did do that to a piece of rock they are pretty messed up.


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By mikewhite
Feb 25, 2008
  Third bolt on last pitch of cheetah

Saurday it is. Anybody want to help out?
Hopefully the prick that did this will be there working on his proj, so I can glue and bolt a asca hanger on his forehead.


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By bsmoot
Feb 25, 2008
Me in the 70's

mikewhite wrote:
Hopefully the prick that did this will be there working on his proj, so I can glue and bolt a asca hanger on his forehead.


Easy now Mike! Be nice to the guy...try using just a dull drill bit.


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