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what are the best trad morning climbs in the shade?

Original Post
steve gould · · blue diamond, NV · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 35

this is a very important question at this time of year with temperatures often over 100 degrees

Dirty Gri Gri, or is it GiGi? · · Vegas · Joined May 2005 · Points: 4,115

Necromancer Wall in Ice Box Canyon has fun trad lines, and shade till about noon. Panty Wall has morning shade, and a couple of good trad lines on it. Lotta Balls in First Creek Canyon should be fine in the morning.

Dirty Gri Gri, or is it GiGi? · · Vegas · Joined May 2005 · Points: 4,115

If you head out at 4AM, you could hike into First Creek, Oak Creek, or Black Velvet Canyon, and knock out just about any 5 pitch route within your ability before it gets hot. Just try to be down by 10:30, and bring a wide brimmed hat, water, and sunscreen, and a sun protection clothing for the hike out. A spray mister bottle works great too to keep your face, and neck cool on the hike out.

Larry DeAngelo · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Nov 2002 · Points: 5,335

Lotta Balls can be hot pretty early, as it gets direct sunshine. The nearby Trihardral is in a west-facing corner and works fairly well in the morning. I prefer afternoon for Lotta Balls and the routes to its right.

Another place is Pine Creek. Community Pillar, Five Pack, and other nearby routes have early shade. see Magic Mountain

In Juniper, you could probably get away with Crimson Chrysalis, which always seems too cold in the "normal" times of the year. Aquarium Wall is pretty survivable in the summer, although several routes have yet to be entered.

Blood Wall has some good warm-weather options (and also a lot of routes to be entered...).

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Nevada
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