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SOUTH facing multi pitch moderates for Winter
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By JPFox
From SLC, UT
Jan 18, 2009
View from Pine Creek's Final Rap
Hello a buddy and I are planning a trip to Red Rocks soon and are wondering where not to freeze our arses off.
Looking for multi pitch trad/mixed routes that are 5.9 or below, essentially what is south facing?
I am looking at Google Earth, and trying to compare the guidebook maps,I have heard Olive Oil is good any other suggestions?
thanks

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By John Hegyes
From Las Vegas, NV
Jan 18, 2009
South of Windy Peak
Windy Peak, south face, has a lot of nice sunny multi-pitch routes. I'd recommend Jubilant Song (5.8).

The Solar Slab area in Oak Creek has some nice routes including Buelah's Book (5.9) and Sundog (short 10a section). Solar Slab (5.6), while not difficult, presents challenges due to its length.

Further up Oak Creek, There and Back Again (5.8) and Rainbow Buttress (5.8) are great, sunny routes.

Lately, there's been a bit of a winter heat wave with highs in the upper 60s in Las Vegas. With warmth like that, climbing in the shade is not out of the question...

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By sqwirll
From Las Vegas
Jan 18, 2009
Cool snow formation at the base.
MysterZ is a pretty casual route that gets a lot of sun.

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By JPFox
From SLC, UT
Jan 18, 2009
View from Pine Creek's Final Rap
thank you
so Olive Oil isn't as warm as I had thought
Hegyes it sounds like it may be warm enough for Chrymson Chryslalis (sp) Am I totally wrong?
Solar Slab already looked good, simul-climbing the approach 5.3 pitches and then knocking out the rest
70m rope we have
MisterZ I will look up
thx again for all the suggestions
anymore are all welcome

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By Greg D
From Here
Jan 18, 2009
Out of the blue.  Photo by Mike W.
If you are going to do Solar Slab climb Johnny Vegas 7 with a 9 option or Beulas Book 9 as the approach to the solar slab. They both take you to the Slab in 3 quality pitchespitches in the sun. That 5.3 is a choss pile.

mountainproject.com/v/nevada/r...

mountainproject.com/v/nevada/r...

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By John Hegyes
From Las Vegas, NV
Jan 18, 2009
South of Windy Peak
JPFox wrote:
Hegyes it sounds like it may be warm enough for Chrymson Chryslalis (sp) Am I totally wrong?


Crimson is a shady route, but if it's like 68 in town and you dress warm, I'm sure you'd have a good time. Just stay away from CC if there is any wind - that route gets crazy gusts. It's also a long route with a long approach and time should be budgeted for getting ropes stuck on rappel - that's some adventure with these short daylight hours.

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By kmunderground
From Custer, SD
Jan 19, 2009
I climbed Myster Z a week ago and it is definitely not in the sun this time of year. The sun never hit us off the ground. It just doesn't clear the south rim of the canyon.

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By sqwirll
From Las Vegas
Jan 19, 2009
Cool snow formation at the base.
kmunderground wrote:
I climbed Myster Z a week ago and it is definitely not in the sun this time of year. The sun never hit us off the ground. It just doesn't clear the south rim of the canyon.


Weird, I just looked through my pictures from January 20th, 2007 and we were in the sun the whole route. Maybe we started earlier?

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By JPFox
From SLC, UT
Jan 20, 2009
View from Pine Creek's Final Rap
thanks for all your input
should be a sweet time

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By JacobD
From Flagstaff, AZ
Jan 11, 2010
Me on Half Dome Boulder, Middle Finger of Fury  Aw...
I was hoping to resurrect this thread and get some more winter multipitch suggestions for Red Rocks. I'm headed there this weekend and and would much appreciate suggestions. I'm looking for anything up to 5.11-. Also is there any hope for anything in Black Velvet Canyon this time of year, or would it be way too cold? Thanks in advance.

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By JacobD
From Flagstaff, AZ
Jan 11, 2010
Me on Half Dome Boulder, Middle Finger of Fury  Aw...
Anyone climbed triassic sands in winter??

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By JPFox
From SLC, UT
Jan 11, 2010
View from Pine Creek's Final Rap
not sure about Black Velvet, but Solar Flare 10c, in the Oak Creek area was on my list for that weekend, Birdland was fun, we got rained/snowed out of the rest of the trip, good luck

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By Cultivating Mass
Jan 11, 2010
Leading on the only "fair means" rack.
Froze trying to do Triassic once in winter when that whole side of the canyon is all day shady; Velvet is a hiking canyon in the winter. Temps have been warm enough that it might be doable though; everyone's tolerance for cold is different. I wouldn't plan on it being nice til late Feb unless it keeps warming up at the same rate that it has been; I'm starting to get sunburnt this year already.

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By JacobD
From Flagstaff, AZ
Jan 11, 2010
Me on Half Dome Boulder, Middle Finger of Fury  Aw...
Thanks for the feed back!

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By John Wilder
From Las Vegas, NV
Jan 12, 2010
Go play on the Eagle Wall if you're climbing into the .11s- Levitation, Mountain Beast, Eagle Dance, etc, etc- all sunny and high up, so even if it is a warm day, you'll get some cooler air up there.

I'd just avoid BV altogether as killis noted- sure its hit and miss, but honestly, its t-shirt weather everywhere else, so why climb in a puffy...

if you're up for an adventure- Orange Clonus or Spectrum are pretty interesting- not the best rock on either, but the reward is great for both. I'd pick Spectrum over Orange for overall quality, but that last pitch on Orange is cherry...

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By dug1ross
From Vancouver, Canada
Jan 16, 2010
Jubilant Song.
MysterZ is not worth doing. Did it a few weeks ago and it was loose and fairly lame.

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By JacobD
From Flagstaff, AZ
Jan 18, 2010
Me on Half Dome Boulder, Middle Finger of Fury  Aw...
Got pretty lucky this Sunday, chanced climbing in Black velvet and comfortably climbed Triassic Sands in a softshell, it must have been in the 50's!! Thanks for all the route recommendations my todo list at redrocks just keeps growing and growing.

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By aliebling
Oct 24, 2011
Despite weather being highly variable, I'm resurrecting this thread again to ask about early November (6th-12th or so). Neither my wife nor I like to climb in the cold, so are we going to be limited to sunny routes or is the shade at this time of the year usually still bearable (or even pleasant/preferred)?

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By Michael Kimm
From Las Vegas, NV
Oct 25, 2011
Gazing at the Gallery
As of this last weekend, shade was still preferred. Remember that when you see a temperature forecast for Red Rock or Las Vegas, the temp they give is in the shade. It generally feels 10 to 15 degrees warmer in the sun, especially if there's no breeze. Stay cool!

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By TomCaldwell
From Clemson, S.C.
Oct 25, 2011
Me on One Pitch Wonder at Whitesides.  Photo credi...
Brownstone is SE facing and has Black Dagger and Armatron. Even though Armatron is 5.9, I would consider it moderate. The 9 pitch hardly feels like 9. It also has a great walk-off. It is common to see big horn sheep out there as well.

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By Rob Fielding
From Las Vegas, NV
Oct 25, 2011
Third pillar of dana descent.
+1 for Brownstone.

A fun/scrambly hike in, although a little long for RR standards.

Armatron, Black Dagger, High Anxiety, Nightcrawler, and more or out there. Some of the best varnished rock in RR's.

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