Andy firing for the lip on one of the first proble...
Lost Rocks is one of the most unique climbing areas in the country. On a coastline hundreds of miles long that is covered with chossy boulders, this string of beaches somehow has solid spectacular rock. The setting here is tranquil and peaceful despite the pounding surf, none of the boulder problems have been given grades and very few are named, and the shifting sands can change the landscape overnight.
The metamorphic boulders vary from blocky overhangs to crimpy faces and smooth slabs. All of the climbing is on the beach so crashpads are rarely (if ever) needed.
Climbers have been coming to Lost Rocks for many years but only recently has word really gotten out about this amazing area. It has become the 3 day bouldering trip for Portlanders due to the fact that it's an easy 6hr. drive away. There are dozens of classic problems here and none of the attitude found at other bouldering destinations. It truly is all about the climbing and the beauty of the location.
Driving time is approximately 6 hours from Portland, and about the same from San Francisco.
From Crescent City, CA:
Drive South to the town of Klamath. Just after the exits to Klamath you will go over a bridge with two golden bear statues-- you will want to take the first exit after this bridge (the Klamath Beach exit). Take a left at the stop sign at the end of the off-ramp and drive for approximately 3 miles. There is a beach access gate and a large campground here, but it is all on private property and it is heavily used by the Yurok tribe. Due to some confrontations with the land owners it is no longer acceptable to use this as an access point to the beaches. Instead, follow the road uphill for another few hundred yards to the camping area and take a trail down from there.
See Rick Shull's comment below for more information.
Do not camp at the campground at the parking area. This belongs to the Yurok tribe of Native Americans and it is on private property. Due to access issues climbers shouldn't use this area to access the beach, and we really shouldn't camp here.
From the gate the road turns left and goes uphill. After 1/3 of a mile or so there are camp sites on the bluff overlooking the ocean. There are no facilities here so bring water and pack out your waste.
The bouldering here is gorgeous. There is only one restriction: the first group of boulders (near the lagoon and the Yurok campground) and the first problems on the next set to the south are off-limits to rock climbers. These boulders are on private property and the Yurok tribe and the property owners request that you not climb on them (despite the fact that there are some great looking problems...). Put your blinders on as you walk by them and head South down the beach for a quarter mile or so to the next great set of boulders. From here, there are two more groups of rocks over the next 1/2 mile of beach.
There are two more beaches to the South that can be approached by some easy scrambling. Your feet might get wet at high-tide but it's certainly do-able. The best bouldering at Lost Rocks is at the final beach although there are plenty of classics in the other areas as well.
One thing that really makes this place unique is the sand. It provides the world's best landings to the problems, but it also changes the very problems themselves. Due to the powerful tides at this beach the sand levels can change up to 5ft. over just a couple of days. Highballs turn into normal problems, and starting holds can disappear completely.
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Lost Rocks:
Start on the prominent undercling with polished feet reach to a good flake then pull on some incut crimps, from the crimps make a move to a dicey sloper. Matching the sloper is the crux once you get it fire up to good holds and top out. Very fun moves and high ball depending on sand levels....[more]Browse More Classics in CA
By Rick Shull Administrator From: Arcata, CA & Dyer,NV Oct 7, 2006
Currently, it is best to park at the Flint rock trail head or the High Bluffs trail head. Due to access issues with the Yurok tribe, please do not park and walk through the ceremonial campground. The Flint rock trail drops onto the beach at the north end of the "legal" climbing. Just up the beach, a freestanding boulder with an obvious flake on the south face, marks the northern boundary. The High Bluffs trail comes out one cove south. Reducing climber visibility in Yurok tribal areas is very important if we want to see this area stay open. Enjoy!
I was there last August (2007) and it was simply amazing. I was incredibly sad that I only had one day... If you're anywhere near northern California, this area is totally worth the trip. Plan to spend at least a whole day. Bonus - it's not far from the Redwoods Hostel.
The fluctuating tides and sand levels, some problems were possible to climb, others not. The sand can make a V4 into a V8, therefore no accurate guidebook exists for the beach boulders. No other medium in climbing besides ice changes as much as the water, sand and rock of bouldering on the coast. Redwood National Park
I stopped by this place on my way North from Jtree about two weeks ago. Excellent beach bouldering and the scenery is truly awesome. The sand cushions almost better than a pad! Three logistical items to note: while the temps and sun were great (tshirt conditions) for early January, the access to the main area was not; even at times of lower tide I found the waves were crashing too high to even contemplate scrambling over there. Second, the camping mentioned above is for Flint Ridge campground, an official NPS campground located 1/4 mi from the parking area; I.e., if you're van-based, it's illegal to camp there unless you leave your van and hike into the campground. Also, note that dogs are prohibited at this campground. Here is the link to more info: www.nps.gov/redw/planyourvisit/backcountry-campsites.htm. Third, while this should go without saying in NorCal, watch for ticks! The trail is overgrown with thorns and brush, and I'm thankful to have only received one bite.
Lost Rocks is a place to lose yourself in the fog, and perhaps find yourself in the movement of fluidity on the rock over a perfect sand landing. I haven't been here in a few years, but every time I see pictures, I remember the days of spending time with my ex-brother-in-law :( enjoying the amazing scenery, bouldering, and just hanging out enjoying company.
It's funny how human relations can screw up a place that is so amazing. I haven't back since since their divorce and I don't know if I ever will, but that doesn't mean that this place isn't one of the best, if not the best when you consider all variable, places to boulder on Earth.