Take Greensprings Hwy (66) past Emigrant Lake 14.8 miles to Tyler Creek Road on the right. Follow Tyler Creek down a hill ~.25 miles, to pullout on right side. Trail will be on the left. Approach is short, but steep with loose gravel.
This the thin crack just to the left of the route "Boys who aren't French". Climb the initial slab placing a small piece or two. Continues with moderate face climbing with a little bit of finger crack action. The crux comes at the top of the route and is a bit committing....[more]Browse More Classics in OR
Great climbing on polished granite. There are a lot of sport routes out here. For a more complete guide check out Greg Orton's guide book for the Rogue - excellent resource for Southern Oregon climbers.
I don't mean to be rude or unkind, but the rock at Greensprings is neither granite nor glacially polished. Orton's guide describes it as columnar basalt. I would agree that it is extrusive, but not basalt. The rock is very light colored for basalt, closer to rhyolite.
And, I agree with Joshua's main point; that there are a few cracks at Greensprings that provide some of Ashland's best training for slippery Yosemite cracks.