Take Greensprings Hwy (66) past Emigrant Lake 14.8 miles to Tyler Creek Road on the right. Follow Tyler Creek down a hill ~.25 miles, to pullout on right side. Trail will be on the left. Approach is short, but steep with loose gravel.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Greensprings:
Rated 5.7 in Greg Orton's guide book. That is quite a sandbag! Or maybe a mistake since the topo on page 45 indicates the crack as a 5.12b. Most importantly, Razor Crack is the best finger and hand crack near Ashland, Oregon. The route begins with unprotected 5.4 face climbing up to a flat ledge at the base of the crack. A green alien or red C3 camalot can be placed from the ledge. Then, purple/.5 camalots protect the initial finger crack (crux). Next, gold/#2 camalot s...[more]Browse More Classics in OR
Great climbing on polished granite. There are a lot of sport routes out here. For a more complete guide check out Greg Orton's guide book for the Rogue - excellent resource for Southern Oregon climbers.
I don't mean to be rude or unkind, but the rock at Greensprings is neither granite nor glacially polished. Orton's guide describes it as columnar basalt. I would agree that it is extrusive, but not basalt. The rock is very light colored for basalt, closer to rhyolite.
And, I agree with Joshua's main point; that there are a few cracks at Greensprings that provide some of Ashland's best training for slippery Yosemite cracks.