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Gold Wall
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Gold Standard 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Chris Miller & Lisa Guindon, March 2002
Page Views: 8,842
Submitted By: C Miller on Oct 26, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (110)
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Gold Standard, 5.6

Description 

Incut plates and edges past two bolts lead to a steeper section of rock (crux) as you move up and right past two more bolts, and then finish up the shoulder of Coyote Crag past three more bolts. The view from the anchors are expansive and well worth checking out. Rap/lower off, although rappelling is probably better for your rope!

For the grade there's not a better route at this area, and this is another climb that would be ideal for somebody just getting into leading.

Location 

Located on the far right side of the Gold Wall and just up and right from Hidden Gold; the climb requires some scrambling onto a ledge to reach the base.

Protection 

7 bolts, chain anchors


Photos of Gold Standard Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Gold Standard (5.6), Holcomb Valley Pinnacles
BETA PHOTO: Gold Standard (5.6), Holcomb Valley Pinnacles
Rock Climbing Photo: Good lead warmup for a great day
Good lead warmup for a great day
Rock Climbing Photo: Mary Moser leading Gold Standard.
Mary Moser leading Gold Standard.
Rock Climbing Photo: Chris Jaccard at the first transition
Chris Jaccard at the first transition
Rock Climbing Photo: T floats Gold Standard
T floats Gold Standard
Rock Climbing Photo: Photo by ATS.    Sorry, didn't mean to steal your ...
BETA PHOTO: Photo by ATS. Sorry, didn't mean to steal your ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Gold Standard (5.6), Holcomb Valley Pinnacles
Gold Standard (5.6), Holcomb Valley Pinnacles
Rock Climbing Photo: Best 5.6 I've ever lead.
Best 5.6 I've ever lead.

Comments on Gold Standard Add Comment
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By Steve Powell
Dec 21, 2006

I agree. one of the best climbs for the grade at Holcomb. pretty fun.
By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Aug 9, 2007

This is the longest easy route in the Pinnacles and great for beginning leaders. Moving from one wall to the next (twice) makes this a very interesting climb.
By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: Big Bear Lake
Jul 3, 2009
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Agreed that this is the best 5.6 at Pinnacles - lots of exposure, cool moves, and length.
By Chris D
From: the couch
Jul 10, 2011

Getting from the first wall to the second will be the crux for anyone in your party who isn't particularly tall. More than one way to do it, but new climbers will mostly only see the most obvious way, which is reachy. What a fun climb!
By RockyR
From: Encinitas, CA
Jul 16, 2011

Fun lead climb! Loved the right high heel hook on the upper wall. ~~ROCKY~~
By Indira Lower
Jul 20, 2011
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Great first lead for people
By Alex Fletcher
From: San Clemente, CA
Jul 5, 2016
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13

I'll start off by saying this route is fantastic and absolutely worthy of being climbed. Then I'll say that I give this a PG13 rating not from difficulty, but because the bolts have a pretty fair amount of spacing between them. Anyone confident in their abilities should have no problem, but from the perspective of one climber in our group who had only lead indoors with the exception of her first route the day before, 10 to 15 foot spacing can be pretty scary. Also, since the climb can visually be divided in three large bulging sections, once you pass some bolts, you can no longer spot where your last bolt is or where the fall would be adding to the mental game.

Onto the route itself, Spoiler alert Beta Warning: You'll want to tend left in the big horizontal cracks, but this will lead you away from the bolt line and onto thinner holds. Avoid doing this and just stay centered or slightly right to stay on route and maintain the grade.

Lastly, this is an excellent climb one could use to top out on the entire section of rock, which our group did to reach the high liners that had set up a line between here and Doc Holiday Wall as well as another line set between skyy slab and Motherlode on the southeast face. There are bolts placed up there just for such thing. As with any other climb on the section of rock, (gold wall, skyy slab, mad cow wall, and coyote crag) the top here offers an unimpeded view of the entire Holcomb Valley and mountains for miles out.
By AlbertKernberg
3 days ago

Exposed with a little space between the clips. :-)

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