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Gold Standard

5.6, Sport, 80 ft,  Avg: 2.9 from 163 votes
FA: Chris Miller & Lisa Guindon, March 2002
California > San Bernardino… > Big Bear Lake Area > Big Bear North > Holcomb Valley… > Central Pinnacles > Gold Wall

Description

Incut plates and edges past two bolts lead to a steeper section of rock (crux) as you move up and right past two more bolts, and then finish up the shoulder of Coyote Crag past three more bolts. The view from the anchors are expansive and well worth checking out. Rap/lower off, although rappelling is probably better for your rope!

For the grade there's not a better route at this area, and this is another climb that would be ideal for somebody just getting into leading.

Location

Located on the far right side of the Gold Wall and just up and right from Hidden Gold; the climb requires some scrambling onto a ledge to reach the base.

Protection

7 bolts, chain anchors

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Gold Standard, 5.6
[Hide Photo] Gold Standard, 5.6
Gold Standard (5.6), Holcomb Valley Pinnacles
[Hide Photo] Gold Standard (5.6), Holcomb Valley Pinnacles
Good lead warmup for a great day
[Hide Photo] Good lead warmup for a great day
Meg on lead
[Hide Photo] Meg on lead
Meg on lead
[Hide Photo] Meg on lead
Dan Schneider leading Gold Standard. Photo by Rachel Briner
[Hide Photo] Dan Schneider leading Gold Standard. Photo by Rachel Briner
Meg on lead
[Hide Photo] Meg on lead
Meg leading
[Hide Photo] Meg leading
Best 5.6 I've ever lead.
[Hide Photo] Best 5.6 I've ever lead.
T floats Gold Standard
[Hide Photo] T floats Gold Standard
Gold Standard (5.6), Holcomb Valley Pinnacles
[Hide Photo] Gold Standard (5.6), Holcomb Valley Pinnacles
Mary Moser leading Gold Standard.
[Hide Photo] Mary Moser leading Gold Standard.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] I agree. one of the best climbs for the grade at Holcomb. pretty fun. Dec 21, 2006
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
 
[Hide Comment] This is the longest easy route in the Pinnacles and great for beginning leaders. Moving from one wall to the next (twice) makes this a very interesting climb. Aug 9, 2007
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
  5.6
[Hide Comment] Agreed that this is the best 5.6 at Pinnacles - lots of exposure, cool moves, and length. Jul 3, 2009
Chris D
the couch
 
[Hide Comment] Getting from the first wall to the second will be the crux for anyone in your party who isn't particularly tall. More than one way to do it, but new climbers will mostly only see the most obvious way, which is reachy. What a fun climb! Jul 10, 2011
RockyR
Encinitas, CA
 
[Hide Comment] Fun lead climb! Loved the right high heel hook on the upper wall. ~~ROCKY~~ Jul 16, 2011
Indira Lower
  5.6
[Hide Comment] Great first lead for people Jul 20, 2011
Alex Fletcher
Anaheim, CA
  5.6 PG13
[Hide Comment] I'll start off by saying this route is fantastic and absolutely worthy of being climbed. Then I'll say that I give this a PG13 rating not from difficulty, but because the bolts have a pretty fair amount of spacing between them. Anyone confident in their abilities should have no problem, but from the perspective of one climber in our group who had only lead indoors with the exception of her first route the day before, 10 to 15 foot spacing can be pretty scary. Also, since the climb can visually be divided in three large bulging sections, once you pass some bolts, you can no longer spot where your last bolt is or where the fall would be adding to the mental game.

Onto the route itself, Spoiler alert Beta Warning: You'll want to tend left in the big horizontal cracks, but this will lead you away from the bolt line and onto thinner holds. Avoid doing this and just stay centered or slightly right to stay on route and maintain the grade.

Lastly, this is an excellent climb one could use to top out on the entire section of rock, which our group did to reach the high liners that had set up a line between here and Doc Holiday Wall as well as another line set between skyy slab and Motherlode on the southeast face. There are bolts placed up there just for such thing. As with any other climb on the section of rock, (gold wall, skyy slab, mad cow wall, and coyote crag) the top here offers an unimpeded view of the entire Holcomb Valley and mountains for miles out. Jul 5, 2016
[Hide Comment] This is a great route to practice cleaning an anchor/rappelling. There is a roomy ledge at the anchor that is comfortable to stand at while you work. May 30, 2017
C Miller
CA
 
[Hide Comment] Please be advised that some genius has removed the quick-links and chains from the anchor leaving only the bolt hangers and making impossible to lower or rap off without leaving something; luckily there is an easy but circuitous down-climb from the top of the route. Apr 8, 2018