"Aging" climbers

A recent article by Matt Samet in Climbing in which, at 37, he bemoaned getting old and the effects of same on his climbing. It was really hard to feel sympathetic for him as 37 is still practically adolescent from my perspective. The article did make me wonder how many climbers 50+ years of age are still out there pulling on rock and how they're adapting to the age thing. I didn't start climbing until 60+ when we moved to CO from the Gulf coast and have been viewed by friends and family as being somewhere between nuts and crazy. However, I believe that as long as one makes the effort to stay fit and avoid injury that age is mainly a state of mind and therefore why the hell not climb? I've been having a blast and have been the beneficiary of good mentoring and professional instruction. I'd be interested in hearing comments from other geezer climbers. Maybe we could form a 'Fred Beckey Society'?

I'll join the club in 3.5 years. Meantime, let me know if you need a partner for any of your to do ticks in Boulder or Eldo.

Greg Speer wrote:It was really hard to feel sympathetic for him as 37

I felt the same way when I read that... I'll be 40 in two weeks, and I'm climbing better than ever. 37 is old when talking about climbing really hard. I know there are "old" guys climbing really hard stuff, but I think they are an exception and not the norm. Even at my age recovery time has increased, and avoiding injury feels almost impossible. Doesn't mean I can't get better and enjoy climbing for many more years. But he's right about one thing, we won't ever feel like teenagers again...

I'm 47 years old, about to be a grand pappy, have an all metal right hip joint implant, and still climb, run, and bike as much as I like and/or possibly can. Age is only relative as long as you keep a perspective/balance with all other aspects of your personal and professional life and stay reasonably to well fit I believe. I prefer climbing with guys and gals my own age or close to it but also love to get out and climb with the younger crowd for the inspiration and vitality they often bring to the activity. It is most often just all about the climbing and the feeling of community and like mindedness that comes with it. I have similar formed circles I like to hang out with in other interests like music. I think is great that you have taken up climbing after the age of 60. Who cares how old you are if you are loving it and being as safe and cautious as any body else active in it regardless of age. I know what the world of climbing has to offer in the way of adventure, challenge, personal development, physicality.... its as legit as any other recreational past time towards meeting these life enhancing aspects despite the often misunderstood dangers of climbing. Finally just like to brag a bit. I just got back from a week of rock climbing in CO where the enjoyable high lights were "The Naked Edge" (not quite clean- fell out of the 4th crux pitch and couldn't get back on due to the overhanging nature and very little protection) in Eldo and "D7" on "The Diamond" (missed the last two crux pitches because it was getting late and we were due to hike out that night still (I hate schlepp'n packs down trail in the dark) and I had a sore throat, there were a ton of other climbers eventually vye'n for the same rappels down to Mill's Glacier). My partner for these is 52 years old and showing very little tendency for slowing down accept for the ever increasing aches and pains coming with being older. I know by today's often much bigger standards the above climbs may actually be no real big deal but I am pretty happy to be getting up these climbs this far along in my life (based on a life long dedication and love to the activity).

I read the article in Climbing Mag by Matt that you mentioned and I thought it was pretty darn funny and painfully truthfull but was still shocked he is wrtiting this from the perspective of only a 37 year old. Hee Hee> I had to laugh.

Getting old is a BITCH but the alternative is ,well, unacceptable!
My girlfriend and I are still charging our sports activities hard every day at 56 years old.

I'm 51, been climbing for 31 years and still climbing a whole bunch - often with a crew of other 50-somethings. Just like always the things holding me back are time, willingness to train (plus sacrifice calories!) and mental blocks. I've been pretty lucky with injuries over the years. Basically I'm climbing as hard as ever. Those days are coming to a close eventually.

I still crack up every time I hear 30-somethings bitch about getting old! OK, if you are climbing hard .13s or V-double digits I can see a drop off in strength after 30 or so. Most of the losses in strength that I have seen have been attributable to gaining weight, though. Gain 20 pounds over a 20 year climbing career and guess what - you're going to feel really weak... but lose the 20 and go crank.

Vitamin I

Bob D'Antonio is still cranking 5.12 at age 56; Richard Rossiter is in fabulous shape (Pilates instructor) and climbing hard at age 63.

While not in the same class as these guys, I still enjoy climbing and putting up new routes at age 63. I've managed to stay relatively injury-free after 29 years on the rocks, although I've had my share of near-death experiences over the years. I fully expect to follow in the footsteps of Fred Beckey and Fritz Wiessner and still be climbing when I'm 80 years old.

My advice to other geezers: listen to your body. Give those little twinges time to heal before they get worse. Don't push the numbers so hard that you injure yourself. Rest when needed. Stay in shape. Vitamin I (Ibuprofen) and Vitamin C (caffeine) are also useful.

Most important: Have fun! Climb safe. Climb with partners you enjoy. Climbing truly is a lifetime sport.

J C Wylks wrote:Vitamin I

Ooops! I thought he was talking about vitamin l - wrong font. Was wondering how Timothy Leary helped him to still climb harder :-)

I'm 55 and just went through a "frozen shoulder", doc gave me some cortizone the other day...magic! I've got about 3 to 4 weeks of physical rehab and I should be able raise my arm above my armpit. I'm not very adept at the one arm climbing thing.

Bob Packwood wrote:Go Geezers Go Geezers Go!

Hard call between:

"Why don't you come over here and say that, punk!?"

and....

Look who's talking.

Climbed with Paul Kunasz at the BRC on Sunday. We did a mileage/endurance workout (15 routes -- mostly 5.11). Paul will be 70 this year, did I mention he'll be 70 this year. Very impressive (37 is not old)...

40 feels great, but I am starting to feel places that I never felt before. Going to see the Doc takes a little longer now. When I see older folks cranking really hard, that motivates me.

I was out in New Jack City a few weeks ago and I met a great couple out there just ripping that place apart, they where in their 70s. I felt like a kid again.

Mingus wrote:Most of the losses in strength that I have seen have been attributable to gaining weight, though. Gain 20 pounds over a 20 year climbing career and guess what - you're going to feel really weak... but lose the 20 and go crank.

Amen! In another 30 years of climbing I calculate that ... yipes! The rope won't hold me.

Another tip: Do not return to routes that you barely made it up in your youth! Nothing good can come of this.

I'm just shy of 27 and to be honest, I'm looking forward to climbing a lot harder in my 30's than I have been in my 20's. Another 10 years of training and I should be kickin ass. I climb with my dad all the time, he's almost 55, has multiple sclerosis, and can still climb 5.11, although he does say it hurts a lot more than it used to. From what I have seen, as long as you don't slack on your workouts and keep a consistent strength base, there's no reason your climbing should suffer that much until you hit your late 50's, your body stops producing as much testosterone, and your muscle recovery is compromised.

Evan Simons wrote:I'm just shy of 27 and to be honest, I'm looking forward to climbing a lot harder in my 30's than I have been in my 20's.

ditto (except i'm already 27). i've had the benefit of learning technique from a few 50-somethings in the local climbing scene who still climb 5.12 (or even 5.13!). when i first started i thought climbing was something you did until you were, say, 35, then you moved on to golf or power walking or yelling at kids to get off your lawn. not anymore. i intend to climb until i fall and die (hopefully when i'm like 120 or so).

There's a lot of research showing that anti-inflammatory drugs like aspirin, ibuprofen and other NSAIDs and SAIDs do quell inflammation effectively, but they inhibit healing of connective tissue, like tendons, ligaments, and fascia. So, they suppress the symptoms of inflammation from climbing hard, but inhibit the body's ability to recover and build stronger connective tissue.

In the long run, it's better to take glucosamine sulfate, vitamin C, and other building blocks of healthy connective tissue, before you have joint pain, rather than with ibuprofen and aspirin. That way, you give your body what it needs for healthy cartilage, and don't suppress its natural healing abilities. I'm 44, but have taken 1000mg daily of glucosamine and 1500mg of vitamin C daily since I was 25, and I'm still running and climbing -- not as hard as Steve Hong or Roger Briggs, but better than my colleagues who play golf on the weekends (not that there's anything wrong with golf!;-).

JohnJ80302 wrote:There's a lot of research showing that anti-inflammatory drugs like aspirin, ibuprofen and other NSAIDs and SAIDs do quell inflammation effectively, but they inhibit healing of connective tissue, like tendons, ligaments, and fascia.

A lot? Really? Please post some peer-reviewed references or citations. In my experience, inflammation is inimical to the healing process - can't have true healing while inflammation is still present; plus inflammation = swelling = continued irritation, injury, and more inflammation (esp. when considering tendons etc.)

NOW, this assumes that one is truly taking an anti-inflammatory dose of said meds - which is higher than most people realize. If you're only taking enough to mask the pain and not truly reduce inflammation, then you're setting yourself up for the problems you describe.

OK so I'm 68, started climbing again 4-5 years ago after a couple of generations, don't lead anything serious, keep below 5.8 except for an occasional well-protectable move to get up in the alpine, sneaking back into snow and ice, ...

Back from a few weeks at the Tetons Climbers' Ranch, where my cabin-mate was 72 and training for his next--of how many!!--Nepal trekking, with one Sherpa or two only, in fall.

Petzoldt, was it, said "... bold climbers, and old climbers, but no old bold climbers." So Fred Beckey faults him. But there's not much so wrong about old climbers who enjoy it, and aren't bold. I hope.

One of my climbing partners here is 66 this year and he's still leading 5.10s up to about a b/c. He's my hero (but don't tell him). I wanna be just like him when i grow up. I'm 38 going on 19, btw.

Kevin Craig wrote: Please post some peer-reviewed references or citations.

Kevin -- PM sent

Evan wrote: "From what I have seen, as long as you don't slack on your workouts and keep a consistent strength base, there's no reason your climbing should suffer that much until you hit your late 50's, your body stops producing as much testosterone, and your muscle recovery is compromised."

Evan, that is really inspirational that your Dad can climb at that level with MS! Re: testosterone...older males always have the option of using supplemental testosterone (and HGH).

John said: "In the long run, it's better to take glucosamine sulfate, vitamin C, and other building blocks of healthy connective tissue, before you have joint pain, rather than with ibuprofen and aspirin. "

I agree...NSAIDs cause liver and kidney damage. John, have you tried bromelain-an enzyme derived from pineapples that is a very effective anti-inflammatory when taken on an empty stomach? Also, ice is so simple and effective it is sometimes overlooked. I heard last week of a study that found cold ocean fish oil was as effective as Vit I in controlling inflammation. Also, arnica gels such as Arniflora
Gel are awesome!
In addition to glucosamine sulfate, CMO (from animal sources, not plant), hyaluronic acid, MSM, Collagen II and Collagen I & III can keep your joints younger.
One last thing re: joint health...peanut butter can interfere with cartilage metabolism. Don't ask me for references of studies about this, because I have searched and can't find any. I first read about peanuts and joint health in a book written by a doctor a long time ago, but can't find the book. All I know is that if I eat peanut butter (I am a PB addict), my joints hurt.