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Dry Falls

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Ape Factor T,S 
Ashram T,S 
Beat Around The Bush T 
Falling Shirkens S 
Finish What You Started S 
Flying Sheep S 
History Repeats Itself T,S 
La Vena Negra S 
Lounge Lizard S 
Slip-Slidin' Away T,S 
Spankin The Sherkin S 

Dry Falls  


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Location: 33.8293, -116.5709 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 4,580
Administrators: Colin Parker, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: toddgordon on May 24, 2010
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Bill Leventhal & Mike Fogarty, Photo Scott Loomis

Description 

This is the big slab and waterfall that you can see from Palm Springs at the base of Mt. San Jacinto. It is about 500 tall.

Getting There 

Drive from downtown Palm Springs on side streets until you can see the Dry Falls. Park and hike for about 30 min. to the slab. There may be fences and no tresspassing signs, but off to the left more seems to be the way to go without trouble.

Climbing Season



Weather station 3.9 miles from here

11 Total Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',3],['5.9',0],['5.10',4],['5.11',3],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Dry Falls :
Falling Shirkens   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 2 pitches, 165'   
History Repeats Itself   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, Sport, 4 pitches, 200'   
La Vena Negra   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Sport, 4 pitches, 260'   
Browse More Classics in Dry Falls

Featured Route For Dry Falls
Bill Levey, Mike Fogarty, photo, Scott Loomis.

La Vena Negra 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b  CA : San Jacinto Mountains : Dry Falls
Pitch 1: Seven bolts lead up to a corner, over left and up to a two bolt anchor. Pitch 2: Six bolts up and right, then left to a two bolt anchor; this is the crux pitch. Pitch 3: Run out 5.6 past three bolts to a two bolt anchor. Run out 5.6 arching right to the top of History Repeats Itself, only one bolt....[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Local Information for Dry Falls
Photos of Dry Falls Slideshow Add Photo
Dry Falls
Dry Falls
Historical anchors found on this wall were interes...
Historical anchors found on this wall were interes...
Mike Fogarty
Mike Fogarty
Unknown (5.11) at the left area, Dry Falls
Unknown (5.11) at the left area, Dry Falls
Dry Falls Topo  A. Flying Sheep (5.10c/d) B. Ape F...
BETA PHOTO: Dry Falls Topo A. Flying Sheep (5.10c/d) B. Ape F...
Lots to do:)
Lots to do:)
Great 5:11 crack, far right of the Bird mess. Bill...
Great 5:11 crack, far right of the Bird mess. Bill...

Comments on Dry Falls Add Comment
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By rich magner
From: cathedral city, ca
Jul 30, 2010
Definitely keep a low profile getting in. The left approach is over the century flood dam and is direct, however, the gate is locked. The residents of the posh P.S. neighborhood actually have keys to this lock, generally are cordial, but it is all water district land. Hanging out in this 'hood for any more than a few moments to gather your pack is a bad idea. Ninja like approaches will help ensure future surreptitious adventures. The longer approach on the right of the alluvial fan and is more discreet, but again, through the hood.

The Climbing here is great, especially on the coldest days in the desert. There are Excellent Slab routes in the back, manufactured sport routes on the peripherals of the canyon. No comment on those. They're there. Most of the established routes are clean, but the area is not well traveled and there is some choss - so be forewarned.

A few months ago some of the climbs were given new chains atop many of the routes, though a few of the bolts could use some replacing! The Falls have routes from the two pitch 5.7 - falling shirikens on the far left, to a couple excellent slabby 5.11s, and an outstanding .10b on the right buttress, just left of the chipped stuff. There is also a strange geological phenomenon along a few of the routes, namely a few inexplicable polyurethane xenoliths protruding from the rock. Strange. I'll post some pics and route info from an old guide when I get a chance!
By Patsy
Jul 25, 2011
Phenomenal protruding polyurethanes? Nerd.
By Roy Suggett
Sep 11, 2011
Back in the late '80s, Brent Inghram, Rus Smith, and myself did most of the work at Dry Falls. Later, Jim Bridwell "worked" on the periphery. Access can be a problem. Because of the nearby (high brow, and expensive) residential areas at the start of the approach and the high visibility of the rock, continued access depends on everyone keeping a low profile. This is particularly important when parking your car at the beginning of the approaches. There is little doubt that the residents (or their security people) will not hesitate to call the police or make complaints to the flood control district at the slightest provocation. The best route in is to park on Dolores Court. If heading north on Palm Canyon Drive, turn left on Las Palmas (at Denny's); turn left on Abrigo, and then right on Via Vadera, right on Los Robles to Dolores Court. Go around the north side of the house with the big solar panels (and through a big hole in the cyclone fence), then southward through the flood control basin. Two options here: 1) an obscure trail up to a main walking trail leads to the crag; or, 2) continue farther down the flood control basin, near the spillway, and head up to the crag on a prominent trail. Back in '89, Brent Inghram and I published a small guide to the area. Someone must have gotten a hold of it because that is the picture of the routes on this site. Prior to us working there, there were undoubtedly others climbing here! There are a number of "mystery bolts" that can still be seen on this rock. It would be best to consider them unreliable...
By C Miller
Administrator
Sep 11, 2011
Roy, you're the one that gave me the topo to Dry Falls back in the late 90's right before you moved to Utah. Thanks again for putting it together and adding the info to this site.