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Routes in Main Wall
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Ape Factor T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Ashram T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Beat Around the Bush T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Charmed Life, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Falling Shirkens S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Finish What You Started S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Flying Sheep S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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History Repeats Itself T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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La Vena Negra S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Lounge Lizard S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Mikey Likes It S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Slaughtumn S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Slip-Slidin' Away T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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So Rebel S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Spanking The Shirken S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Sport, 130 ft (39 m) |
| FA: | Derek & Giselle Field (2019) - ground-up |
| Page Views: | 1,429 total · 28/month |
| Shared By: | Derek Field on Mar 4, 2019 |
| Admins: | Colin Parker, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
The Charmed Life is a long pitch of desert slab. Like its neighbouring routes, it's a real calf-burner. It was bolted ground-up so the spacing may be considered a little spicy for some. Not dangerous at all, but perhaps just exciting enough to make it memorable.
Route: Start up a shallow left-facing crescent which soon fizzles out, leaving you with a seemingly endless friction romp. Slightly crispy stone at the 3rd bolt gradually gives way to a smooth varnished slab with very few features. At the 8th bolt, surmount the undercut basalt dike and finish on an exfoliating slab.
Descent: Rappel from the two-bolt ring anchor. Read below:
Route: Start up a shallow left-facing crescent which soon fizzles out, leaving you with a seemingly endless friction romp. Slightly crispy stone at the 3rd bolt gradually gives way to a smooth varnished slab with very few features. At the 8th bolt, surmount the undercut basalt dike and finish on an exfoliating slab.
Descent: Rappel from the two-bolt ring anchor. Read below:
- With one 60m rope you will need to stop halfway down at the top-anchor for So Rebel (climber's left).
- With one 70m rope you can make it to the ground but you must trend climber's left to land on higher ground. - knot your ends!!!
- With two ropes you will easily make it all the way down.
- You need a 70m rope for this.
- Construct your anchor with a >20-foot length of cordelette.
- Have the belayer scramble a little ways up and left along the base of the wall to a higher position.
- Knot the end for safety!
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