Type: Sport, 130 ft (39 m)
FA: Derek & Giselle Field (2019) - ground-up
Page Views: 1,705 total · 26/month
Shared By: Derek Field on Mar 4, 2019
Admins: Colin Parker, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


5 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
-none-
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Description Suggest change

The Charmed Life is a long pitch of desert slab. Like its neighbouring routes, it's a real calf-burner. It was bolted ground-up so the spacing may be considered a little spicy for some. Not dangerous at all, but perhaps just exciting enough to make it memorable.

Route: Start up a shallow left-facing crescent which soon fizzles out, leaving you with a seemingly endless friction romp. Slightly crispy stone at the 3rd bolt gradually gives way to a smooth varnished slab with very few features. At the 8th bolt, surmount the undercut basalt dike and finish on an exfoliating slab.

Descent: Rappel from the two-bolt ring anchor. Read below:
  • With one 60m rope you will need to stop halfway down at the top-anchor for So Rebel (climber's left).
  • With one 70m rope you can make it to the ground but you must trend climber's left to land on higher ground. - knot your ends!!!
  • With two ropes you will easily make it all the way down.
To lower off and thus leave a toprope setup, keep the following things in mind:
  • You need a 70m rope for this.
  • Construct your anchor with a >20-foot length of cordelette.
  • Have the belayer scramble a little ways up and left along the base of the wall to a higher position.
  • Knot the end for safety!

Location Suggest change

See photos. This route is second-from-the-left on the far left side of the wall. Look for the first bolt in a shallow, left-facing crescent.

Protection Suggest change

10 bolts + 2-bolt ring anchor

Photos

0 Comments