Type: Sport, 130 ft (39 m)
FA: Derek & Giselle Field (2019) - ground-up
Page Views: 987 total · 34/month
Shared By: Derek Field on Mar 4, 2019
Admins: Colin Parker, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Vicki Schwantes, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Description

The Charmed Life is a long pitch of desert slab. Like its neighbouring routes, it's a real calf-burner. It was bolted ground-up so the spacing may be considered a little spicy for some. Not dangerous at all, but perhaps just exciting enough to make it memorable.

Route: Start up a shallow left-facing crescent which soon fizzles out, leaving you with a seemingly endless friction romp. Slightly crispy stone at the 3rd bolt gradually gives way to a smooth varnished slab with very few features. At the 8th bolt, surmount the undercut basalt dike and finish on an exfoliating slab.

Descent: Rappel from the two-bolt ring anchor. Read below:
  • With one 60m rope you will need to stop halfway down at the top-anchor for So Rebel (climber's left).
  • With one 70m rope you can make it to the ground but you must trend climber's left to land on higher ground. - knot your ends!!!
  • With two ropes you will easily make it all the way down.
To lower off and thus leave a toprope setup, keep the following things in mind:
  • You need a 70m rope for this.
  • Construct your anchor with a >20-foot length of cordelette.
  • Have the belayer scramble a little ways up and left along the base of the wall to a higher position.
  • Knot the end for safety!

Location

See photos. This route is second-from-the-left on the far left side of the wall. Look for the first bolt in a shallow, left-facing crescent.

Protection

10 bolts + 2-bolt ring anchor

Photos

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