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Boxcar Rocks (Chinese Wall)

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Main Wall 

Boxcar Rocks (Chinese Wall) Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 40.5445, -76.5356 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 7,465
Administrators: Justin Johnsen, The Stoned Master, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Dan Smith on Aug 14, 2008
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BETA PHOTO: Walking around the Turtle Head next to Moby Neil o...

Description 

A mixed conglomerate area that has about 7 sport routes and many trad leads. Most routes can be toproped. Beware the rock can be loose and pebbles can break off when you least expect.

Getting There 

From the south, east or west: drive (probably via PA 78 or 81) to route 72 north near Swatara township. Follow it through Swatara Gap - crossing the Appalachian Trail - and through Swatara State Park as it becomes route 443 north.

2.1 miles past the 443 north junction, turn left onto Gold Mine Road. Follow it a total of 4.4 miles, over a short, steep mountain pass (Blue Mountain) and a second uphill grade. The pullout will be the largest on your right hand (east) side, with room for several cars to park before the dirt pullout road is blocked by a closed gate.

Park here and walk east past the gates until you reach a burn site - if you're attentive you might see a small wood sign saying "Boxcar Rd" on the left. Continue waling and take the first real trail on the right (southward). This takes you to the back side of the rocks near the "turtles head" (Moby Neil end) on the Main Wall.

The coordinates here are for the Main Wall parking lot.

Directions if driving from the north (I think - please verify, I haven't confirmed this). Heading south on Gold Mine Road, go over the first mountain. Continue down until you pass the rail bed. The pullout is third pullout on the left side.

Climbing Season

For the South Central PA area.

Weather station 7.9 miles from here

23 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',12],['2 Stars',9],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',4],['5.7',3],['5.8',0],['5.9',4],['5.10',5],['5.11',3],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',2],['V2-3',2],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Boxcar Rocks (Chinese Wall)

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Boxcar Rocks (Chinese Wall):
Margies Curves - Left    5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 35'   Main Wall
Birthday Girl    5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 30'   Main Wall
Autumns Child    5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 35'   Main Wall
Snap Crackle Plop   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Main Wall
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Boxcar Rocks (Chinese Wall)

Featured Route For Boxcar Rocks (Chinese Wall)
Rock Climbing Photo: Margies Curves Left.

Margies Curves - Left 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b  PA : South Central PA : ... : Main Wall
Fine, fun crack. Third splitter on the Main Wall.Above the horizontal at 35 feet, you can finish up the offwidth (5.6) or climb the face to the right of the crack (5.4R), to reach a 2 ring anchor at 50 feet.Well protected with plenty of options for feet outside the crack as well....[more]   Browse More Classics in PA

Photos of Boxcar Rocks (Chinese Wall) Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Main wall
BETA PHOTO: Main wall
Rock Climbing Photo: Toprope face climb on the main wall circa 2000 5.9...
Toprope face climb on the main wall circa 2000 5.9...
Rock Climbing Photo: Main Wall parking lot. Goldmine Road is 40 feet pa...
BETA PHOTO: Main Wall parking lot. Goldmine Road is 40 feet pa...
Rock Climbing Photo: Working a fun, easy traverse from right to left. Y...
Working a fun, easy traverse from right to left. Y...
Rock Climbing Photo: Boulder problem at Boxcar Rocks. This is also a fu...
Boulder problem at Boxcar Rocks. This is also a fu...
Rock Climbing Photo: A short Boulder Problem at Boxcar Rocks.
A short Boulder Problem at Boxcar Rocks.
Rock Climbing Photo: Short easy wall suitable for bouldering.
BETA PHOTO: Short easy wall suitable for bouldering.

Comments on Boxcar Rocks (Chinese Wall) Add Comment
Show which comments
By Paul Brandstetter
From: Harrisburg PA
Jan 11, 2011
This is navigation from a TomTom you may have to switch the numbers around or use a dash depending on your GPS.
By The Stoned Master
Administrator
From: Pennsylvania
Sep 17, 2013
Be cautious when setting cams here. To maximize the potential that the cam will do as you want/expect (not walk, move, pop out, hold the fall, etc.) DO NOT place the lobes on the pebbles. When the lobes are placed on the smooth pebbles the cams can sometimes (definitly not always) dislodge the pebbles now making the cam too small or straight up pull the cam out with the pebble. Try and aim for the lobes to sit against the solid stone itself, if possible.

Enjoy this fun place and be mindful that LAW ENFORCEMENT officers do patrol here.


Rock Climbing Photo: Boxcar Rock's typical "pebbley" stone an...
Boxcar Rock's typical "pebbley" stone and cams.



Rock Climbing Photo: Boxcar Rock's typical "pebbley" stone an...
Boxcar Rock's typical "pebbley" stone and cams.
By minquatrails
From: Lancaster PA
Sep 1, 2015
I went here for a day of trad climbing and was not disappointed. The approach is short (<10 minutes) and hauling the large cams (#5,#6) will allow you to sew up the wider cracks. Great crack climbs (especially for PA!). The rock is quite unlike anything I've climbed before. The place gets a good amount of shade so it made climbing in the heat of summer tolerable.

If you go for the trad climbs, be prepared to wander around the top a bit for the bolts. Not all anchors have rap rings.

I didn't try the sport climbing but there seems to be enough for at least a couple of visits and the bolts appeared to be in good shape.

Tired of Safe Harbor's sport & can't get to the Gunks for some EZ/Moderate Trad? Try this place.
By minquatrails
From: Lancaster PA
Nov 25, 2015
BK -

Sorry you had a bad experience. I had the place to myself on a weekday.

Looks like the closure is seasonal. Maybe if you wear blaze orange you can climb there?

clintoncountyinfo.com/vb/state...

State game lands are public hunting grounds and lawful hunting
and trapping are permitted during open seasons. To enable the
Commission to effectively manage and protect these invaluable
land holdings for this and future generations of hunters, trappers
and wildlife enthusiasts, the following activities are prohibited:

Except on Sundays, to be present on state game lands from Nov. 15
through Dec.15 inclusive when not engaged in lawful hunting or
trapping and fail to wear a minimum of 250 square inches of
fluorescent orange material on the head, chest and back combined,
or, in lieu thereof, a hat of the same colored material. Orange
material must be visible 360 degrees. Persons using shooting ranges
are exempted.

Not sure if those regs only apply to Clinton county or not.

Anyone else have info on this?

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