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Routes in Main Wall

Apprentice, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Autumns Child T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Birthday Girl T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cobblestoned T,TR 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Curt's Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Great Train Robbery, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Headstone T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Keneissiology T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Manhattan Limited TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Margies Curves - Left T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Margies Curves - Right T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Moby Neil T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Pebbles and Bam Bam T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Please Don't Pop S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Retro Vertigo TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Russell's Ruin T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Silver Streak TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Snap Crackle Plop S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Vertigo TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Elevation: 1,437 ft
GPS: 40.544, -76.529 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 6,059 total · 74/month
Shared By: joeforte on Jan 19, 2012
Admins: Justin Johnsen, Kyle Stapp, SCPC
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The largest and most accessible wall at Boxcar Rocks. Climbs are on the south facing (sunny) side of the wall. The routes run around 45-50 feet tall.

Most or all of the Main Wall now has bolts for anchors just below the top of the wall. In the past they were directly on the top, and subject to much vandalism. These bolts can be reached most safely by lead climbing an easier route.

Alternately you can scramble up blocks on the back/north side of the wall. You'll still have to free climb easy class 5 rock to reach the top and set anchors from the back. We sent our anchor setter up wearing his climbing shoes, let him clip in to an anchor bolt for safety, then let him haul up the heavy gear and rope on a cord.

Routes from left to right:

Just right of the Turtle Head:
  • Moby Neil 5.6 G
  • Locomotive Breath 5.10c TR
  • Moby Direct 5.7 TR
  • Russel's Ruin 5.5 G
  • Cobblestoned 5.11d TR
  • Bam Bam 5.10a TR: the wall immediately left of Pebbles crack. I think I noticed some bolts there.
  • Pebbles 5.6 G: the almost-vertical crack. It goes up 3/4ths of the way up the wall, shifts slightly right at the horizontal, then resumes verticality to the top.
  • Curt's Crack 5.7 G
  • Snap Crackle Plop 5.10a (bolts)
  • The Apprentice 5.9 (5 bolts)
  • Autumn's Child 5.10a G

Margie's curves: look for the only Y-shaped crack on the main wall. The area between the arms of the Y is the Headstone.
  • Margie's Curves Left 5.7 G
  • Headstone TR 5.9
  • Margie's Curves Right rating?
  • Vertigo 5.9 R
  • Retro Vertigo 5.10a R
  • Birthday Girl 5.7 G (2 bolts)
  • Kinesiology 5.6 G

This list covers most but not all climbs we saw there in winter 2012. More face lines are bolted now than I have listed here. The obvious crack climbs are all named in this list, and graded 5.5 to 5.7 G. The farthest left crack was wider than others, and 4" or wider SLCDs might work best there. Most others look doable with standard 3" and smaller gear, unless we missed some surprises higher up.

Getting There

Hike 5 or 10 minutes east of the parking lot to reach the Main Wall.

From the lot, walk east past the gates until you reach a burn site - if you're attentive you might see a small wood sign saying "Boxcar Rd" on the left. Continue waling and take the first real trail on the right (southward). This takes you to the back side of the rocks near the "turtles head" (Moby Neil end) on the Main Wall.

19 Total Climbs

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Justin Johnsen
Sacramento, CA
Justin Johnsen   Sacramento, CA  
Sorted your routes, thanks for adding those S. Oct 10, 2013

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