BETA PHOTO: Some of the Peanut Boulders. Dark Matter is in the...
Description
Due to the short approach, good landings, and variety of problems, the Peanut Boulders have some of the best bouldering on Mount Lemmon. Tyler McMillen's out of print "Tucson Bouldering" only says, "many boulders, few worthwhile problems. Not recommended". After closer inspection the area in fact contains quality problems covering a range of grades. Given it's proximity to the Catalina Highway it is quite surprising how little evidence of climbing there is in this area, some odd bolts and a few epoxied holds. Route names are given here to help simplify organization and navigation. There is no intention to claim an unrightful FA. Any additional background on the climbing history here is encouraged. The post-fire landscape is fairly open with easily negotiable brush. Please do your part to limit the impact on this area while new plantlife gets established. As is the case with almost every area on Mount Lemmon, season and temperature have a great impact on the conditions here. The rock quality can vary from bullet to junk. Many problems are suspect to crumbs, but usually not enough to be a deterent.
Getting There
On the way up the Catalina Highway one must make a hairpin left just after passing the General Hitchcock Campground. Parking for the Peanuts is at the pullout just up the road from mile marker 12. This sign also indicates 6000 feet and "Speed Enforcement Area". Hike (slowly) up the gravel left of the sign and the guardrail. Follow this trail uphill until you crest the small hill and end up near a streambed. The boulders lie directly ahead, to the right, and uphill to the left. This intersection of streambed, drainage, and trail is a good reference point. To the left are the Nacho, Quartz Band, and Berry Boulders. Straight ahead are the Dark Matter, Turtlehead, and WTF Boulders. The right side has the Geometry, and Square Top Boulders. The maximum hike time from the car is typically five minutes to the furthest boulders.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Peanut Boulders:
Thanks for posting up this info. I was out there today checking it out and climbing a few problems and was surprised to see chalk. There are definitely a lot of good boulders out there,and I'll be back soon to find some of these.
Did you guys send the hard looking arete on the opposite side of "aretey done"? That thing looks killer.
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