Alapocas Run State Park  Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular Lat, Long:  39.7691, -75.5583 Map Page Views:  1,174. Good page?    Administrator:  Tom Erickson Submitted By:  Justin Johnsen on Oct 13, 2010 Make this area a Favorite What's New   Print a Mini-Guide with routes Add Route  Add Photo  Add Comment  Add Event

Permit required for roped climbing. MORE INFO >>> On your first visit, go to the Blue Ball Barn to get a mandatory (but inexpensive) climbing permit. You must carry the permit with you any time you climb on ropes at Alapocas, or you may be ticketed. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

BETA PHOTO: Alapocas main wall topo from Alapocas climbing gui...

Description 

There is only one crag where climbing is legal in Alapocas Run State Park, and a permit is required to use it.

The Alapocas crag is a former quarry, south-facing and sunny. There are fine views from the top of the park, river, and a derelict 19th century textile mill. Use is light compared to many crags in major city parks. Rock is Wilmington Blue Rock, a gneiss; its quality is just okay.

The established routes have a pair of eyebolts for setting toprope anchors, and there are a couple of short sport routes. Development of new routes is ongoing.

Park rock climbing page: www.destateparks.com/activities/rock-climbing/index.asp

Getting There 

On your first visit, you must start at Blue Ball Barn to get a climbing permit. No climbing is allowed until you do this, and you must carry the permit with you any time you climb at Alapocas.

Once permitted, you should drive to the parking lot at the end of Bancroft Mill Road, across the Brandywine River from the park.

From the lot, walk across the pedestrian bridge across the river. On the park side of the bridge, turn right and follow the paved trail past a couple of prohibited cliffs on your left, and past a waterfall on your right. Past the waterfall, you will see the rock climbing sign and the open cliff to your left , with a large lawn and picnic tables in front of it.

Routes 

This is a list of established routes on the main wall at Alapocas, from left to right.

Far left ground level:
Hungry for Me 5.5 TR

Middle ground level:
(under Dichotomy) ~5.3 to 5.6
(under Old School) ~5.6 or 5.7

Middle ledge:
Junior Slab (or Very Sticky Babysteps Up From Pullin' Plastic) 5.3 TR
Dichotomy 5.8 TR
Dichotomy Corner 5.6 TR
Bend Over and Take It TR
Scar Face (or Self Domination) 5.9 TR
Old School 5.7 TR
Old Grandmom 5.2 TR
Old Granddad (or Bob's Slab) 5.2 TR

Right middle ledge:
Chipper ~5.10? TR
Spanky ~5.10? TR

Right ground level:
"Warm up traverse" V0+?
Arena Arete 5.9 TR / V0
Rambo 5.12a TR or sport
Grey Streak 5.10b TR or sport / V0+
Temptation ~5.10? TR
Chossy's Corner 5.6 TR

These routes are from Michael Hartman's excellent guide, available free online from mhartman.net/climbing/ . To quote Michael: "Area names, route names, and grades have been preserved when known. Names and grades have been made up when not known. Let me know if you are aware of different area names, route names, or grades."

The Classics

Featured Route For Alapocas Run State Park

Hungry for Me 5.5  * In Progress : Delaware : Alapocas Run State Park

Find the anchor under a tree along the dirt path from the paved trail to the cliff top. Climb the path of least resistance up the low angled face to the anchor, bearing right when needed. A major diagonal crack is the main feature, partially filled with old tree roots. Ledges and other features offer plenty to work with for a beginning climber....[more]   Browse More Classics in * In Progress

Photos of Alapocas Run State Park Slideshow

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Abandoned factories from on top of Alapocas' main ...	BETA PHOTO: The whole main wall at Alapocas, including the lef...	BETA PHOTO: Randall pulls the roof on top of Old School.
BETA PHOTO: Alapocas main wall with spring greenery.