REI Community
The Pixie Stick

The Pixie Stick Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 38.32594, -109.88931 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 1,215
Administrators: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Noah McKelvin on Mar 29, 2014
Forecast:
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The Pixie Stick stands tall in a very remote part of Monument Basin. It is one of the most incredible pinnacles to stand atop of and a very grand adventure. I wanted to include it on MP mainly because I strongly think it needs to be. The rock is sort of like a virgin type of the Fisher Towers rock. This formation has had 3 known ascents which speaks for it's difficulty.

It includes two pitches, no bolts, no pins, no fixed anchors. (Due to Canyonlands regulations) This is also a candidate to go free by someone who loves free climbing on Fisher type terrain. It would be scary but doable. The summit makes Standing Rocks summit seem boring. Super wild. Props to Paul Gagner and Dougald MacDonald for linking it all together.

Take your time on the crux second pitch. I'm not so good at grading things but let's keep it real and call it C3. Enjoy!

Getting There 

White Rim Road. Get on down into the Standing Rock Basin. Hike around for a ways until you arrive at the base and wonder where the route is.

Climbing Season



Weather station 9.1 miles from here


Featured Route For The Pixie Stick
Photos of The Pixie Stick Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: David Alexander on ze summit
David Alexander on ze summit

Comments on The Pixie Stick Add Comment
Show which comments
By David A
From: Amsterdam, Netherlands
Jun 12, 2014
The first pitch goes free pretty easily, with a short 5.9+ roof crux with bomber gear. Take care and climb gingerly for the rest of it. Second pitch is dicey aid on small things...bring the smallest cams you got! And don't forget the Lowe balls! Awesome summit...one of the best.
By -mn
Jun 24, 2014
Thought the roof on pitch one was harder than 9+. Did this a few years back and hiked in from the rim - top of the wingate that is - Grand View Point. Makes for a near full day and it's a good way to do other towers down there if your not up for the drive. This "stick" has a great out there feeling to it, semi-involved approach, killer summit and hardly ever climbed - all the right stuff.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About