Teton Rack

Any consensus about what makes up a standard Teton rack?

Jeff Wilson wrote:Any consensus about what makes up a standard Teton rack?

Nah. Really depends on the route, type of route, and your tolerance for the type of terrain and grade.

Obviously, a "rack" for the Enclosure Coulior will be different than for Irene's Arete, for instance.

For me, it more depends on the grade of the route. I'll take the 4 smallest hexes only as a rock rack if the grade is low enough that I'm comfy. For something more challenging, I'll bump up to a pretty full set of cams with a set of nuts, slings and draws to match. For something harder, doubles on the size gear that would be crux related.

The recommended rack in the front of the Ortenburger/Jackson guide is pretty spot on.

Cheers.

Obviously a number of factors apply here -
which route, type of climb, and length of approach...

I would take your standard rack on your trip and pare down or beef it up based on the climb...carry only what you feel comfortable with leading/carrying on the approach...some approaches can be a bit long.

Here's a better question. Having been up Baxter's and Symmetry Spire I know I can do those climbs with what I call a light rack; Set of nuts and a set of cams to 2", slings, draws and spare biner's, though I would take a couple more cams and a few hexes to set up belays. Can't see needing much more than this for the full Exum or North Ridge, eh?

What would a standard rack include for the Grand Teton via Upper Exum or Owen Spaulding routes?

T.S. wrote:What would a standard rack include for the Grand Teton via Upper Exum or Owen Spaulding routes?

Pair of sticky rubber approach shoes and a good head for soloing?

Ha ha.

I guess I'd suggest the standard rack that the guidebook recommends.

Not knowing your experience would make it difficult to recommend a rack.

Most experienced climbers, in dry conditions, solo the O-S route. If you do pitch it out, a set of med to large stoppers and a couple of cams in the .5 to 1 camalot range would "probably" be adequate.

But, if you only feel safe with 4 or 5 pieces at a belay...

For the Upper Exum? I'd guess a full set of stoppers and a full set of cams. Probably similar to what the guidebook recommends.

Slings and draws to match...

-Brian in SLC

T.S. wrote:What would a standard rack include for the Grand Teton via Upper Exum or Owen Spaulding routes?

Here's my rack for sewing up the OS.

Owen Witesman wrote: Here's my rack for sewing up the OS.

Easy now, don't go overboard! Heh.

What is the OS? I keep seeing it referenced in Wyoming area posts, Tetons I assume using some faint context clues.

Faulted Geologist wrote: What is the OS?

OS is the Owen-Spalding Route:

Owen-Spalding

Faulted Geologist wrote: Easy now, don't go overboard! Heh. What is the OS? I keep seeing it referenced in Wyoming area posts, Tetons I assume using some faint context clues.

The easiest route to the top of The Grand.

Jason Todd wrote: OS is the Owen-Spalding Route: Owen-Spalding

Oh, I had read that route name tens of times in the last week. Thanks. What is the hardest Grand Teet route and the appropriate rack? May ask a homie to meet there for a dash during our fam vacation. Still ISO Tetons alpine guidebook.

Ray Pinpillage wrote: The easiest route to the top of The Grand.

Yup all ya need is one day, an extra pair of trousers, and a bacon sandwich.

youtube.com/watch?v=goVrUOC…

Faulted Geologist wrote:What is the hardest Grand Teet route and the appropriate rack?

The harder routes are on the East (shorter) and North Faces 5.10-5.12

Allen Sanderson wrote: Yup all ya need is one day, an extra pair of trousers, and a bacon sandwich.

I find rap'ing down on a skinny cord faster though...if there isn't a traffic jam at the rap stations. Bring a lightweight skinny cord and BD couloir harness. You can fit it all in a 20L pack. My wife and I climbed the upper Exum car to car in 8 hours, no gear, just a skinny cord and light weight harnesses.