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Mamie Peak
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Ellation  

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 8 pitches, 800', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Matt Alford & Darin Berdinka October 2009
New Route: Yes
Season: summer & fall
Page Views: 776
Submitted By: Darin Berdinka on Jun 26, 2015

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Pitch 3.

Description 

An eight pitch line up the best rock in the center of Mamie Peak. A techy three pitch slab leads to five spectacular and exposed pitches up the center of a knob and crack riddled buttress. Sustained 5.10 face, friction and crack climbing with a couple 5.11- cruxes for good measure. Protection is generally excellent and most hard moves could be pulled through if need be. See topo for pitch details.

The route is easily and quickly rapped with a single 70m rope. On the big ledge find the rappel anchor about 30' to climbers left of the top of Pitch 3. The sixth pitch has a tendency to eat ropes while rappelling. To avoid this place a leaver biner on the second bolt and have the last person down clip the pull strand through the biner. Several rappels are near the full 35m, tie backup knots!

Location 

Follow the approach in the Mamie Peak Description. Ellation starts up a series of shallow grooves above and left of the single pitch crag. Look for a couple bolts on the first pitch.

Protection 

Fixed anchors. Most pitches are partially bolted, requires a medium rack to 3" including doubles of fingers to tight hand cams and at least 10 draws/slings.


Photos of Ellation Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 2.
Pitch 2.
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 1.
Pitch 1.
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 4.
Pitch 4.
Rock Climbing Photo: We got really lost finding the route, this would h...
BETA PHOTO: We got really lost finding the route, this would h...
Rock Climbing Photo: Ellation Topo
BETA PHOTO: Ellation Topo

Comments on Ellation Add Comment
Show which comments
By Yuval Boss
Aug 3, 2017
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

Trip report and some additional beta from 7/29/2017
yuvalboss.com/trip/ellation-ma...
By Jon Nelson
Administrator
From: Bellingham, WA
Aug 3, 2017

Is the name of the route supposed to be the word "elation"?
By Kyle Elliott
From: Everett, WA
Aug 4, 2017

Jon, I believe the name is after the FAist's daughter, Ella. I could be wrong tho
By Jon Nelson
Administrator
From: Bellingham, WA
Aug 4, 2017

Thanks Kyle, you're probably right.

It's nice learning more info about a route's history and naming.

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