Climbing Jacks Canyon and Queens Creek March 14 - 17

Hi there,

A couple of us are travelling from Ontario next week and were thinking about climbing Jacks Canyon and Queens Creek. We are looking for advice on routes and suggestions on other locations to visit. We are sport climbers, and prefer climbing 5.7 - 5.10 range.
- Are these appropriate places?
- How is the access to Jacks? We've read that you have to wade across a stream?
- Where is the best place to get climbing guides? Are any available online?

Thanks for any help and advice you can provide.

There is a newer guide out to Jacks. You can find it on Amazon for about $22 US. The crag is relatively easy to find and the creek will only be a problem if the water is high. Usually not too bad but I would call the coffee shop in Winslow or the gym in Flagstaff for local up to date info. There is no guide to it, but, the Winslow Wall is supposed to be better than Jacks.
Good Luck

nancy20 wrote:Hi there, A couple of us are travelling from Ontario next week and were thinking about climbing Jacks Canyon and Queens Creek. We are looking for advice on routes and suggestions on other locations to visit. We are sport climbers, and prefer climbing 5.7 - 5.10 range. - Are these appropriate places? - How is the access to Jacks? We've read that you have to wade across a stream? - Where is the best place to get climbing guides? Are any available online? Thanks for any help and advice you can provide.

These are both appropriate places. Guides for Jacks and Queen Creek can be found at any local climbing gym or at REI. Call the gyms to make sure thier shops are open first though.

Jacks: 5.Easy to 5.hard sport routes with soft ratings and close bolt spacing. There is a website with a lot of information on the place (a google search should pull this up). Make sure you bring your own fire wood.

Queen Creek: The ratings will definitely be stiffer than Jack's at Queen Creek. For Queen Creek there are "Marty Guides" (fold out paper maps) that are great. "The Pond", "The Mine", and any of the "Devils Canyon" guides would be good for you. Be aware that there are some trad routes mixed in with sport at some areas in Queen Creek.

And I wouldn't mess with Winslow Wall unless you have a fair amount of time. It can be hard to find the rappel in, it will be freezing cold right now, and there won't be many routes in the 5.7-5.10 range. Other places to consider for sport this time of year would be the homestead or mount lemmon.

Have fun!

thomas ellis wrote:. There is no guide to it, but, the Winslow Wall is supposed to be better than Jacks. Good Luck

Winslow Wall is awesome, beautiful setting and great rock. However It does not sound like a good place for you. There are very few climbs in the 7-10 range, I think there is one 9/8, Also due to the lack of a guidebook you will have a hard time finding the climbs, or even getting there. It would likely be warm enough to climb but not a comfortable temp. I think jacks is a better bet for you.

You can get the guidebook from this website:
www.jackscanyon.com. Part of the proceeds will go to the author for all the hard work she did. More info on weather conditions can be found from this website:
facebook.com/search.php?q=j…

You can get pretty accurate weather for jacks from climbingweather.com. You can pretty much climb in the sun as long as it's above 55F. There are bunch of good routes within your ability to do at cracker Jack wall and Casino Cliffs. Both of these areas are not affected by water and both areas are climbable in the spring. For my taste I would go to Jacks any day over Queen creek. My opinion is based on quality of routes at Jacks and a secluded high desert climate vs. the sound of 18 Wheeler every two minutes

Either Jacks or Queen Creek will work nicely for you. I was at Jack's this weekend and the temps were perfect.

The only places at Queen Creek you have to deal with major highway noise would be The Pond or Atlantis which are only two areas in that vicinity.

Hope you have a good visit!

If you trad climb check out oak creek overlook or paradise forks
both places you can rappel in hint,hint, oh and there is Le petite verdon sporty by flag & priest draw has some fine bouldering. alot of unpublished climbing down here for sure. It can snow at flag this time of year

Sport climbing in Queen Creek is all over the place. I suggest you first stop into REI in Tempe or Phoenix to get Marty Karabin's foldout guides to the different areas you wish to visit.

Although noisy, the Pond area and Atlantis are sure to fill up a couple days of sport in the range you seek. Easy approach and lots of bolts.

My favorite area in Queen Creek is Lower Devil's Canyon. The road in has been vastly improved. I was there yesterday and you would have a tough drive into the main area unless you have a 4wd. Hackberry Creek is worth the walk in from just below the big hill. Park your 2wd here and hike about 20-30 minutes to the HC. Lot of fun routes, some require gear but not all.

Want more info, pm me.

Thank you to everyone for your help! Leaving today and super excited