Rope-only anchoring

In posts about anchoring methods, there is always a comment like "just use your rope". That is my preference as well since my brain needs simplicity.

So I'm offering this up as the most uber-simple (but reasonably safe) method... rope-only with one clove hitch. Did I see this suggested in some climbing literature or will no one want to climb with me again?!

Pretend the first biner is the harness. And once the pro are in, you just clip into the biners and finish it off with a clove hitch. I realize this isn't the "ideal" anchor, but again I'm shooting for simplicity and reasonable safety so I can't think of anything easier than this IN CERTAIN SITUATIONS.

It could be much more simple by using all clove hitches. adjustable too.

I would be pissed if I was at the end of a long pitch within sight of a good belay stance and didnt have enough rope to get there. I prefer using just the rope but there are simpler ways to do it. Figure eight to your most solid peice then clove hitch and equalize to the next two.

Whoa! That looks complicated. Try a equalizing figure eight. You can use 2 loops or 3 to your anchor points. The knot is very easy to tie and adjust to varying lengths to your anchor points. Here's a description of the knot: Depending on the distance between anchor points will determin how much of a bite of rope you need to use. OK so you grab a bite of rope and tie a figure eight. The loop of rope at the end goes back through the top part of the figure eight. As I said before you can adjust each one of the 3 possible loops(or use only 2 loops)to your anchor points. Very simple and quick but does use a fair amount of rope. climbing.about.com/od/climb…

That really is not any faster than equalizing at the pieces, plus it looks like if the middle piece blows you have about a 6 foot extension to deal with. The equalized 8 or bunny ear knot is a much faster and cleaner setup.

Really, the idea of using the rope for your main anchor is to be able to utilize it's dynamic properties when catching a big fall. Not make complicated rope art.

The following would be one way to simplify your setup:

+1 for the equalizing figure 8. I was shown that a few months ago and it blew my mind.