didnt someone in Utah invent the removeable bolt thingy?

I heard it didnt work too well as lead gear because they were hard as hell to pull out after weighting/falling on them and the holes were almost impossible to see while climbing.

anyways, being stuck in a state where anchors are frowned upon and trees are croaking because of all the use, I was wondering if these things were still made and possibly if they would work as anchors if equalized properly.

they were like loweballs right?

mobley wrote:I was wondering if these things were still made and possibly if they would work as anchors if equalized properly. they were like loweballs right?

http://www.climbtech.com/web/products_climbing.aspx

I think they only make the 1/2" size now?

I have some 1/2" models, and, strangely, they seemed to make a 1/4" size too, but, discontinued the 3/8" one first?

You kinda need a pointy tool to unset them if they see most any load.

Not super practical. Especially compared to just picking up a few Fixe Triplex, which seem much easier to remove.

fixeusa.com/triplex_3-piece…

Cheers.

Greg wrote:You have to be careful leaving open holes in areas where there is moisture and freeze/thaw cycles because water can get in the holes and end up cracking the rock.

Not before some mud dauber wasps make nests out of them...

Or some guy named Ken fills the holes with epoxy...

Brian in SLC wrote: Not before some mud dauber wasps make nests out of them... Or some guy named Ken fills the holes with epoxy...

Ken.......

thanks Brian, they arent sold in too many places. they seem to be something that could solve a few problems around here.

I can see a problem of the holes filling in with crap though. damnit.

I have used the fixe triplex, esp when working a potential route. I can abandon it and nobody can see the holes and I can reuse em later. They are great, much easier than the climbtech bolts.

Another vote for Fixe Triplex. I've used them for ground anchors when rope-soloing new routes, you use a 12mm hole hanger, place & tighten them, then when you want to pull them, you loosen the nut partway (don't even take the nut off), then pull them out with a quickdraw. Super easy.

Which, incidentally, is why we (ASCA) use them with 10mm hole hanger above the top of the sleeve - so they don't pull with a quickdraw if the nut loosens.

Use threadlock if you're leaving them with 12mm hole hangers.

BUT - all this aside, an empty bolt hole is still a bolt even if you leave nothing in the hole, at least as far as most anyone involved in any sort of bolt wars would think...

$5.80 each? ouch!

Wish they'd let you buy them in bulk to cut that price down or something...

The non-stainless ones are fine for removable use, those should be a lot cheaper.

edit: Woops, doesn't look like they sell the plated steel ones anymore (they used to have them, gold colored)

I think the removable bolt made by SLC's Steve Habovstak and Randy Kielewievski (sp?...sorry) is far superior to the earlier models. I think that was the original question. I don't know where they are still available, but you could try to contact them dirctly. They called them NOTS.
Very useful, I have found.
Cheers!

I have some 5/8" ones rated at 22kn, I use them to anchor at the base when rope soloing and have never had any trouble removing them.

Got them during a construction project, they were being used by scaffold erectors as temporary anchors. Each time they went up one section they drilled a new hole through the masonry and into the concrete structure and moved them up with them.

Very functional and cost effective for hi-rise construction work, I bet there still available but I can't figure out who manufactured them.since I threw away the cases and literature.

Found em! but Youch 124 bucks!

whitecapdirect.com/products…

they call them reusable grip anchors.

55 bucks for 2400 lbs or 124 bucks for 5000 lbs
someone once told me a guy named Tony invented them
maybe it was just a tall tale

these could greatly improve CT climbing

mobley wrote:55 bucks for 2400 lbs or 124 bucks for 5000 lbs someone once told me a guy named Tony invented them maybe it was just a tall tale these could greatly improve CT climbing

No, but, was a strong advocate of them. His name is on the packaging for the RB's sold by Liberty as one of the climbers using them. Probably where the cornfusion comes from. Was using them on a route or two in Tuolumne, if I recall correctly, on low angle slab climbing. Never became that popular there, methinks.

James, I've not seen a NOTS. See Steve around a bit (with his kids at the climbing gym). Not sure they are still making them, though, are they?

I dunno. They kinda seem like a good idear but pratically aren't, methinks. A hole is a hole. Best to fill it with something folks can see and find, and, good solid bolts and hangers just aren't that expensive.

A triplex in 1/2" or 10mm would be great. Having to buy and carry a 12mm drill bit for only one type of bolt anchor isn't optimal...but, they do work well. Seem to be finicky about the hole size, to be sure (ie, use a 12mm drill, not a 1/2").

I really think the NOTS (Nick Of Time Something or other) are way better than the old RBs. If the normal RB gets weighted or takes a big force, they simply will not come out. Not so with the Stevo Habovstak model NOTS. I have used them extensively in new terrain especially drilling on lead and maybe not sure I wanted to install the bolt in that particular place. If one chooses not to fill the hole with a conventional bolt, it is easily filled and covered up with glue and dirt and totally undetectable. This method was used quite a bit on Main Hellgate and Ibex.

Brian, I am in NZ at the present....these Kiwis could learn a thing or two about proper bolt placement. Spinners everywhere on brand new routes! Tons of potential on excellent rock!.....you should come over and do a bolt seminar! The Darrans rule.
James