steve edwards > Forum Messages
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Regional >
Northern Utah & Idaho
Reply: Blacksmith Fork Canyon closed?
Sep 24, 2015
I would have called you Kingsley.
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Regional >
Northern California
Reply: Goulara: A Bolting Controversy
Apr 8, 2015
Impressive, Nathanael. I'll buy you a pack, too. We'll probably have to meet at the cliff for it, since I live in Utah and will be arrested if I put such contraband in the post…
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Regional >
Northern California
Reply: Goulara: A Bolting Controversy
Apr 8, 2015
Rad. Okay, I won't answer. The history/route in question is pretty clear in my book, though I'd totally forgotten about Doniel climbing the variation of Monstrosity and Rees…
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Regional >
Northern California
Reply: Goulara: A Bolting Controversy
Apr 8, 2015
Alright, I'll play, since I'm sure I have some info that none of y'all know. I should probably go look at my book, which I'll have to find, and drink another cup of coffee to r…
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Regional >
Southern California
Reply: Blythe, CA climbing?
Apr 2, 2015
I soloed one of those towers off the highway in AZ years ago. I remember the rock being decent. Of course, I learned to climb at Stoney Point so many chossy things seem spectac…
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Regional >
Southern California
Reply: Blythe, CA climbing?
Mar 23, 2015
There's some very good climbing between Bullhead City and Kingman. I think you can find info on the inter webs, though the locals try and keep it quiet, but if you look on the…
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Regional >
Southern Utah Deserts
Reply: Looking for Zion and Moab/creek partners effective…
Mar 8, 2015
Do we have time to finish our drinks? - Dr. Hemlock
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General >
Training Forum
Reply: Ondra Interview on Training Beta
Feb 19, 2015
This is a very good and useful interview. Adapting his approach to your lifestyle would undoubtedly help almost anyone improve their climbing, as long as you understand some of…
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General >
Ice Climbing
Reply: Is it a FA if?
Feb 2, 2015
The words equipped and opened used to denote these differences in sport climbing, with equipped for bolting, cleaning, but not being able to free all the moves and opened for t…
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Regional >
Southern Utah Deserts
Reply: Visiting St George, Need Advice
Nov 6, 2014
Holy crap! I hadn't heard of that place, Backatit. So psyched, now, for the next trip. Thanks!
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Regional >
Southern Utah Deserts
Reply: Visiting St George, Need Advice
Nov 5, 2014
In my opinion, the best wall down there for fun easy routes is Prophesy Wall. Check it out. For food - Irmitas is good. Mexican. Text Yes on both. Just east of Irmitas (which…
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General >
General Climbing
Reply: Tufa Climbing in the States?
Nov 2, 2014
...like Canada. I have missed this crag. Heard rumors of some garden spot on a western island with iffy access. Even saw some old pics. Didn't notice tufas in them but I think…
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General >
General Climbing
Reply: Tufa Climbing in the States?
Nov 2, 2014
Tufas don't do well in places that freeze. There's not much in the Mormon Mountains, though there are some on the southern-facing walls. St George has very little tufa climbing…
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General >
General Climbing
Reply: Too much "beta" on MP... losing sense of adventure
Oct 21, 2014
This is actually (since it's also great troll fodder) a good subject. It's always been the main issue with climbing guides, too. As both a climbing guide author and a access wo…
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Regional >
Northern Utah & Idaho
Reply: West Desert Cave ID
Oct 18, 2014
Like all "secret" areas in the inter-mountain west, contemplation will lead to rapture. If things don't unveil themselves quick enough, try printing out this page, shredding i…
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General >
Trad Climbing
Reply: Redpointing Multipitch Routes, does it really matter?
Oct 3, 2014
Unless you record everything you do on 8a and are trying to make a living from the sport, who friggin' cares? You do a route for the experience climbing on a particular piece o…
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Regional >
International
Reply: Climbing trip Europe
Sep 15, 2014
Sounds like the greatest trip ever. Reckon you'll bump that grade a bit by the end. I would not over plan. You'll meet people and be inspired by places you can't predict. Spain…
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Regional >
Northern Utah & Idaho
Reply: Beastie Boys 12d sans bolts
Aug 15, 2014
I did the moves of Beastie Boys in my garage without clipping bolts. Does that count? Great vid.
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Regional >
International
Reply: Climbing in/near Bergamo, Italy?
Apr 16, 2014
There's absolutely no climbing in that area and the people know nothing about lifestyle, aesthetics, or food. Oh, wait, Bergamo, ITALY. Strike that. Reverse it. You're moving t…
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General >
Big Wall and Aid Climbing
Reply: Big Wall food
Mar 7, 2014
No more Dinty Moore. I permanently have the gag reflex from that stuff. Clearly, you've become a sport climber.
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General >
Big Wall and Aid Climbing
Reply: Big Wall food
Mar 7, 2014
Anything other than canned food is cheating. If Dinty Moore goes out of business, multi-day big wall ascents will no longer count.
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Regional >
Southern California
Reply: Texas canyon camping
Jan 4, 2014
slabs like this one? rockclimbing.com/photos/Spo…
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General >
General Climbing
Reply: The "best" climber in the world
Dec 24, 2012
"Can woods or ondra even climb trad?" Correct question given the topic. The same thing was asked about Huber when he came to the Valley the first time. And though he had not…
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General >
General Climbing
Reply: The "best" climber in the world
Dec 24, 2012
Funny i just saw this on Planet Mountain. history of difficulty Ghersen is the only all arounder to appear on this list, though someone might mention Huber since we're…
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General >
General Climbing
Reply: The "best" climber in the world
Dec 24, 2012
David Lama. Not sure how close anyone is at the moment. In the vein of Alex Lowe, who was rad, there have been a lot of guys over the years. Kevin Thaw, never thought to be…
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General >
General Climbing
Reply: science of pump?
Oct 22, 2012
Lance Armstrong doped!?!? I'm shocked! Shocked, I say! Round up the usual suspects.
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General >
General Climbing
Reply: science of pump?
Oct 21, 2012
Wait...so when I get pumped it means my muscles are fermenting? No wonder I always fall off and feel strange... ...and want a beer. No, really, you should study Lance Armstr…
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General >
Training Forum
Reply: Rob Miller on training
Sep 27, 2012
I think it's an outstanding article. I've addressed some of your questions and tried to layman-ize it a bit in a follow-up post here: Review of The Map of Athletic Performa…
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General >
General Climbing
Reply: Fat guys who climb hard.
Aug 20, 2012
Unfortunately most of these claims are exaggerated, weight wise. Lots of 200+ climb 5.13. Not too many 5.14 though that will undoubtably change as 5.14 because less close to th…
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General >
Other Sports
Reply: Mountain Bikes
May 8, 2012
I don't ride children's wheels any longer but I also don't ride like a child. My friends that do all went back to 26" after breaking too many frames and wheels. So, yeah, if yo…
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General >
General Climbing
Reply: Can we all just agree Bear Grylls is a giant tool?
Apr 20, 2012
I don't know what you people are talking about. That video is AWE SOME. I'm not sure Bear is ready for Captain Kirk but I'd pay good money to see him in The Open against these…
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General >
General Climbing
Reply: List of first American routes of each grade
Feb 3, 2012
That story on the Phoenix is RAD! Cool thread even if figuring this shit out is impossible. As a climbing history buff I'm always interested in learning something I didn't know…
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Regional >
Southern Utah Deserts
Reply: Eating in St George
Jan 4, 2012
I agree on many points with both Ben and Dow but we're getting seriously off topic. Compared to St George SLC is like a combination of Paris, London, and Hong Kong. SLC is also…
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Regional >
Southern Utah Deserts
Reply: Eating in St George
Jan 1, 2012
It's true, they are closed. So I've tried a couple of the places on this list. Seriously? Cafe Rio. Digusting. I would not feed it to my dog. Not kidding. We did not bring…
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Regional >
Southern Utah Deserts
Reply: Eating in St George
Dec 26, 2011
When did this happen? Talked to the owner on my last trip in November and he didn't mention anything. Ony possible upside would be if he found a spot to open in SLC, since we a…
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General >
General Climbing
Reply: Could Ondra free the Dawn Wall?
Dec 15, 2011
I know this thread is just a troll but here's Huber discussing Ondra. Thoughtful and interesting. And not boring (assuming you like climbing history). Huber on Ondra
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