Drill Instructor
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
| Type: | Trad, 55 ft (17 m) |
| GPS: | 38.30011, -119.8959 |
| FA: | Caleb Thorpe, Marco Conci, Joel Primrose, Brad Young, July 21, 2022. |
| Page Views: | 44 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Brad Young on May 25, 2026 |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Salamanizer Ski |
Description
Start as for Chickenheaded Nice, but don’t move left along the horizontal crack. Continue straight up instead. A steep but very featured face is protected by three bolts, a three-quarter inch piece in a shallow slot, and many slung chickenheads. From the top of the block, move up and left to the shared Head Chicken top anchor.
A leader should consider placing a sling over an up-and-right rock protrusion at the top of the block/buttress. While not needed for lead protection, this sling can provide a helpful directional to a follower.



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