Split Pinnacle, Regular Route

From the A Climber’s Guide to the High Sierra (1954), edited by Hervey H. Voge:

Follow the west fork of Eagle Creek to the 5,000-foot contour and circle back to the southwest corner of the West Pinnacle. An easy upward traverse on the valley side of the West Pinnacle, past its class 3 summit, brings one to an ample ledge beneath the 25-foot, 117° summit pitch. A shoulder-stand and three well-placed pitons with slings enable the leader to grasp excellent hidden holds on the edge of a ledge on the extreme left. Use minute transient footholds and pull up onto the ledge, from which the summit is easily reached. This pinnacle is one of the most popular short climbs in the valley.

Blending in to the higher cliffs, Split Pinnacle is a slender spire sitting above Manure Pile along the Eagle Creek Drainage. Once a popular short climb out of the Valley, this historic classic has largely faded into obscurity, now with only sporadic ascents, mostly via the East Arete. The Regular Route, first climbed in 1938 offers a fun half day adventure with a short pitch of easy A1 aid climbing to gain the slender summit, topped with a small pine tree.

From the notch between Split Pinnacle and the Valley Rim, there are two options. The original route scrambles slightly down and around the southwest side to a steep gully and notch between the lower west and higher eastern summits. This is rated fourth class, although with some crumbly rock and significant exposure, parties may want to rope up for the final bit to gain the notch.
The second option ascends a short series of second class ramps off the notch to a chimney formed by several leaning flakes. Climb the low fifth class chimney, over a series of flakes leaning against the western summit to a short fun catwalk directly into the notch.

The second pitch is a short 15' 5.7 dual crack system protected by a BD #1. This leads to a ledge below the summit aid pitch with slung boulders for an anchor.

The final pitch to the summit is A1, with a high first piton that can be stick clipped, reached via a shoulder stand like the FA, or gained with an initial aid move off a lower seam. I found a Black Totem worked well. A second piton is reached where a wider crack forms just above. The third piton is now missing, but the crack takes decent gear at that point, ranging from BD #0.5-2. Exit the aid climbing when possible, transitioning to the low angled summit slab or wide crack to the lone pine tree at the summit. Alternatively, you could climb the 5.10c final pitch of the East Arete Route instead of the aid pitch.

To descend, rappel the tree back to the notch between the eastern and western summits. From the notch, lead up to the lower western summit (low fifth class, but awkward and loose) to a new two bolt rappel station. A 60 meter rope easily reaches the base of the flake chimney.

Follow the Eagle Creek drainage until Split Pinnacle is directly overhead. Continue a bit higher then traverse loose dirt slopes to the saddle between Split Pinnacle and the Valley Rim.

Singles up to BD #3, two pitons on the aid pitch. A black totem is useful for the small slot to reach the first piton.