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California
> Eastern Sierra
> Bishop Area
> Pine Creek Canyon
> Scheelite Canyo…
> Trailerpark
Crack-Head
5.12b/c YDS 7b+ French 27 Ewbanks IX- UIAA 27 ZA E6 6b British
Avg: 3 from 2
votes
Routes in Trailerpark
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Bottle Kids S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Chester S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Crack-Head S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Dr. Feelgood T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Eviction S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Fast Lane to Feelgood S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Hillbilly Hell S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Methamatics S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Super Tramp S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Trailer Tramp S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Tweeker S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Van Candy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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White Trash S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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| Type: | Sport, 90 ft (27 m) |
| GPS: | 37.38521, -118.68031 |
| FA: | October 2025 |
| Page Views: | 121 total · 37/month |
| Shared By: | Patrick O'Donnell on Oct 19, 2025 · Updates |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
Same start as "Tweeker" but climb directly straight up the obvious crack. Though it looks "not that hard" Crack-Head turned out a little more challenging than expected. Right off the ground the first couple moves in the crack are challenging (12a or so). Gain a stance on a sloping slab just under the overhanging crack. Clip a high bolt where the over hanging crack starts and launch into a continuous section of desperate crack lay-backing into the red-point crux where the terrain eases back to 5.10 climbing to the anchor. A surprisingly fun hard route with good protection the whole way.
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