Seam Ripper
5.13b YDS 8a French 29 Ewbanks IX+ UIAA 30 ZA E7 6c British PG13
| Type: | Trad, 75 ft (23 m) |
| GPS: | 37.64839, -119.06474 |
| FA: | Abel Jones 10/1/2025 |
| Page Views: | 122 total · 24/month |
| Shared By: | Abel Jones on Oct 2, 2025 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Description
The Seam Ripper
What a line! Striking intermittent seams on a gorgeous orange and black panel on the most pronounced vertical section of the cliff. This thing was begging to be climbed. After a thorough cleaning and anchor installation it took a couple of years to figure out its unique sequences and gear for the send. It has just enough protection to keep you safe and the spice to keep you fighting the primal urge to over grip.
It’s an all gear line that will probably be approached by most as a head point, though I can imagine a few people that could OS. The name is partially derived from the multiple gear placements that ripped out on the first lead attempt, resulting in a fairly safe but 20 ft fall that landed me about 5’ off the deck. The original micro nut placement, thought to be the key to leaving this line all natural, blew out the rock around it. A deep micro cam placement was left in its wake. All thoughts of bolting this rare trad test piece were set aside and now we have one of the hardest all gear lines in Mammoth.
No matter how you climb it, TR, pink point, or lead, it’s a fun and intricate challenge on beautiful stone. Rip the seams in the rock instead of the ones in your pants and enjoy!
Thanks to Neil Kaufman for helping with cleaning, Josh McClure with some of the moves, Andrew Stevens for the name, Ben Ditto for bolting advice, movement and catching a fatty whip, and Tony Lewis with his ATC for the silky send belay. Thanks friends!
Location
The obvious intermittent seams and features in the orange and black streaked wall between Shibumi and Shady Baby. Start in the finger and hand crack leading to the horizontal below the main panel and climb to the shared anchors with shibumi. Independent anchors for top-roping.
Protection
Double set micro cams to #.75 and 1x #2. Offset nuts and cams are useful but not required. Whittle the rack down for the send. The natural line ends on the shared anchors with shibumi (can’t fight nature) Skip the last shibumi bolt with an overhead .3 to keep it all trad. The independent anchors out right are better for top-roping since they keep you over a majority of the route. 60m rope is plenty. Easy to set up TR off of either of the two routes to the left. DM me for play by play gear beta and full video if you want to make flash.



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