Bear Balls

This a long, moderate climb that can be done as 5.8 or 5.10a in a beautiful setting with multiple bail out points for those not wanting to finish. You also top out at the Bear Creek Trail, which makes for an easy descent. The aspect is South-facing.

Another possibility is to just climb the upper portion of the route for an easy 5.7 multi-pitch climb.

This is a new climb for 2025, so there are some loose rocks on ledges and sometimes on easy ground. There have been cleaning efforts made, and it’s in pretty decent shape, but it’s the San Juans, and new routes can shed some rock. A helmet should be considered as well as some prudence in checking holds before you pull on them.

The climb has bolted belays at 30-35m intervals. You can walk off the climb to the left at the 3rd, 4th, and 7th belays.

Pitch 1. 5.8, 115’.

Start by the big pine tree about 80’ left of the waterfall. Follow bolts up and right of the tree. Climb through the overlap and into a right-facing corner with another bolt. High step left out of the corner to the left, and climb up to another bolt. Climb up and right to another bolt, then step over the little bulge. Move left into a small, right-facing corner to a small roof where cams can be placed. Continue up and then right toward a small pine tree, and move back left to clip the final bolt. Continue straight up on easier ground to the belay. This can be linked with pitch 2.

Pitch 2. 5.6, 115’.

Look for a bolt on the ledge above you and to the right. You are going to climb in the direction of that bolt. About 10’ above the anchor is a #0.4 cam placement. From there, run it out on easy climbing for about 20’, and then start looking for cam placements. Continue to the ledge, and move right past a bolt and to a bolted anchor (10a variation) or continue another 20’ to the next bolted anchor (5.8 variation).

Pitch 3. 115’ 5.8 or 5.10a.

There are two options for this pitch. The 5.10a harder variation is better!

5.8 Variation: climb up past two bolts then to easier terrain with cams in horizontal cracks. Look for a #2 Camalot placement in the roof/overlap, then continue up to the next bolt. Move left along the horizontal cracks, and follow it left passing a bolt before reaching the belay around the corner. Look for the bolts to help with route finding, 4 bolts.

Arete variation (5.10a): this more aesthetic variation climbs left from the first belay on the ramp up a left-facing corner system, then it follows bolts to the arete. Once you reach the easier climbing at the top, you can belay from the rappel anchor on the left, or continue up and right to a two bolt anchor on the right.

Pitch 4. 5.7, 115’.

Bump the belay up to a ledge at the base of a right-facing corner. Climb the right-facing corner with a crack in it. Continue above on easier ground to a bolted belay on the right on a horizontal ledge system.

Nico’s Bulge variation (5.7/8): climb straight up from the bolt belay (no chains) on the buttress, through a bulge (one tricky move), and into a square cut groove that leads to easy climbing with hand crack.

Pitch 5. 5.6, 115’.

Climb up and right past a big pine tree, then continue up and right towards the buttress to a bolted belay under a roof in the smooth, glacier polished rock. It’s easy to link this with pitch 6 if you have a 70m rope.

Pitch 6. 5.6, 115’.

Climb up the right side of the roof then up moderate ground to a bolted belay on a ledge right of a big pine tree.

Pitch 7. 5.7 100’.

Easy climbing over a rubble-strewn ledge leads to a roof with a V-slot. Look for a bolt at a weakness in the center of the roof, follow a crack through it, and then head to the right of the big tree. This can be linked with pitch 8.

Pitch 8. 5.5, 105’.

Gain the top of the ledge system above the anchor, and climb up to the left side of a ledge with trees on it.

Pitch 9. 5.5 120’

Head right, crossing the treed gully, then go up the face, heading toward a small tree at the top of the wall. There is an anchor here located on a ledge next to a small tree and the trail is just above. This pitch can be skipped by following the belay ledge to the left, although it has nice climbing and is worthwhile.

Descent: from the top of the route, you can walk off to the left down the Bear Creek Trail. The trail is easy but switchbacks a number of times. For a more direct route, you can also scramble down the ridge that you started up on the descent which is third class. The route can also be rappelled with a 70m rope.

Park at the next pullout upcanyon (south) from the Bear Creek Trailhead (the first and only tunnel on US Highway 550) and before Bear Creek Falls Overtook. There are two roads leading up from the parking. Take the one on the right, and follow it to a ridge staying right.

Note: this ridge gains the Bear Creek Trail eventually and can be between 3rd and easy 5th Class depending on the variation chosen.

Hike up the ridge about 100’ above the tallest tree on the ridge. Locate a narrow ledge across the gorge-side slab. Follow this ledge to where it meets the ground and cliff above. A trail wanders down to the base of the climb, which is by a waterfall. There are some exposed sections on the trail, so take care.

(2x) cams #0.1 to #3, (1x) #4, 12 alpine draws, and a 70m rope (BD Camalot sizing).