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The Wright Stuff

5.11-, Sport, 70 ft (21 m),  Avg: 2.4 from 11 votes
FA: Dave Meyers
Colorado > Dumont Vicinity > Mill Creek Crag

Description

This was named in honor of the prolific developer Richard Wright who put in most routes here at Mill Creek as well as all across the Front Range. Every climber in the Front Range has climbed many Richard Wright routes and should appreciate his contributions. Legend has it that he lost his hand in a climbing accident, and instead of getting a prosthetic, he had a Bosch hammer drill surgically attached in its stead. This explains how he was able to get so many routes established in such a short period of time. All the lines myself and others have put in recently around these parts would have been developed by Richard if it wasn't for his untimely passing; we're just picking up where he left off.

The Wright Stuff can be done in two ways. Start off the ground with some difficult layback moves to gain the second bolt, then crank through the crux following a bulge and through some roofs to gain the anchor on Deflator-Mouse. Most people will clip the Mussy hooks and lower from here, but the more adventurous types can climb past this anchor to gain the Freeway ledge and climb the sweet bolted headwall as either an extension or as a separate pitch. I did it both ways, and doing it as a separate pitch is way better for rope drag and communication with your belayer. Regardless, both sections come in at 5.11a but are entirely different styles. The lower half to the first anchor is very bouldery and powerful, whereas the upper headwall is more technical and delicate. Both are super fun and engaging, albeit short lived. You can get all the way down to the ground with a 60m rope from the upper anchors.

Location

The Wright Stuff is located just to the right of Deflator-Mouse and to the left of Big Dreams.

Protection

Bolts.

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Yellow = The Wright Stuff.
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Red = Deflator-Mouse.
[Hide Photo] Yellow = The Wright Stuff. Red = Deflator-Mouse.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] Unfortunately, I broke one of the main holds at the crux. It did not leave any other hold in that spot. It was surprising, I was pulling quite hard on the gaston and threw the hold about 60 feet from the cliff. I’m sure there’s still a sequence that works but not the one that was part of the original ascent. Jun 29, 2024