Northwest Face/Corner

Approaching from the northwest (from Alpha), follow the ridge to the base of an easy chimney. Head up the chimney to a large ledge. From the ledge, climb up the North face on steep and sporty terrain, eventually trending left until you can get to a comfortable position on the arete/corner. Follow the path of least resistance placing cryptic small gear (and be sure to test any rock you use). Once on the arete, protection is sparse but the difficulty eases up, follow slabby slopers to a beautiful topout. You can descend via the rap anchors for the standard route after a short but exposed 3rd class scramble from the summit. 

Although this route may have been climbed before Wallace and Parker’s “Sharpen the Saw” traverse of the Sawtooth Ridge, I haven’t been able to find any information on the first ascent. This route is one of the highlights of the sawtooth traverse, and is well worth doing on its own.

Gain the ridge at the base of Alpha (rather than through Needle pass as you would for the South corner) and follow a 3rd/4th scramble to the base. Stay on the western aspect of the ridge and you’ll find yourself below a very obvious chimney.

A lot of micro brass placements on sometimes very questionable rock. Just because you found a placement doesn’t mean it’ll hold a fall, the rock is friable so be careful!