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Hard & Soul (open project)
5.12+ YDS 7c French 28 Ewbanks IX UIAA 27 ZA E6 6b British
Avg: 4 from 3
votes
Early Access
Routes in Hard & Soul Boulder
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Battle of Urushiol T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Hard & Soul (open project) T,TR 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
| Type: | Trad, TR, 50 ft (15 m) |
| GPS: | 33.01063, -116.97138 |
| FA: | none yet |
| Page Views: | 562 total · 18/month |
| Shared By: | Philipp Arndt on Mar 9, 2024 · Updates |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Salamanizer Ski |
Description
**This is a project. FA is all yours if you can climb it.**
The long, right-leaning, overhung crack. This starts as an awkward, shallow and overhung armbar/chickenwing offwidth that leads to one fist jam at the top (5.11-ish). After that the crux is a slightly overhung flared tips section in a corner, with tricky feet (hard Woodson 5.12 maybe?), until you can get your feet onto a good hold at a discontinuity in the crack. The rest of the route is a much easier, enjoyable finger crack in a corner.
Seems to stay wet for multiple days after it rains.
Location
Just after the road's last switchback before the summit, locate a climber's trail that goes downhill on the north slope. Follow the trail downhill past Trunk Tribute and Ben&Bill. The Hard & Soul Boulder is just below and west from Ben&Bill.
Protection
2-bolt anchor. The offwidth section at the start protects with stoppers or micro cams in the back (this might be somewhat loose), until you can get a solid cam into the main crack (#3 C4 or larger). For the rest of the route it's mostly finger-sized pieces. Offset cams and stoppers fit the flare very well.
For toprope, bring two or three finger-sized cams to set directionals.
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