Type: Boulder, 17 ft (5 m)
GPS: 39.215, -77.08488
FA: Open Project
Page Views: 337 total · 12/month
Shared By: Alek Fredriksson on Oct 22, 2023
Admins: Frances Fierst, C S

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

The "direct" version of "The Conservationist".  Start and finish the same as "The Conservationist", except the arete is "off" until you reach the juggy lip at the apex of the boulder.  The grade is of course purely a suggestion (as grades generally are).

The last two moves before the topout are the crux, and they are quite dynamic.  A fall from the crux could result in pretty bad injury if you fall off the boulder below you, or if you land only partway on the boulder. 

I'm sure this climb "goes", however there is quite a lot of risk.  If you plan on trying this, please rehearse the moves on a rope, and please know what you are getting into.  There is always risk when climbing, but the likelihood of taking a bad fall on this problem is pretty high due to how powerful/dynamic the moves are up high, and due to the landing zone itself.  

Also be careful with how you set up the rope. It is easy to have the rope slip off of either side of the boulder. 

Location Suggest change

Conservation Queen Overhang.

Protection Suggest change

10 pads, and a rope to work the problem.  Under 8 pads and the problem likely becomes Rated X. A net setup of some sort could be used to level out the landing/hold pads, but I'm not quite sure how to go about doing that. 

UPDATE: you can place a size 3 Blue Camalot at the lip of the boulder as a directional point for a static line! Makes working this problem on a rope way easier (except for the topout).

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