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Routes in (a) Romance Rock
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Bottlenecking S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Casanova S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Dogs of Lust S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Don Juan de la Sangre S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Everything, All the Time S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Hypergamous S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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I'll show you mine S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Lizards In Love S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Lust Weekend S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Puppy Love S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Schizoid Vernacular S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Show Me Yours S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Wide Love S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Wild Romance S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Sport, 30 ft (9 m) |
| GPS: | 48.6064, -120.43333 |
| FA: | Bryan Burdo |
| Page Views: | 201 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Jack Copland on Jul 11, 2023 |
| Admins: | applewood, Jon Nelson, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan |
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Access Issue: Camping for Climbers in Mazama
Details
From the MVC:
The Methow Valley Climbers, a chapter of the Washington Climbers Coalition, respectfully asks visiting climbers to NOT camp or sleep in your vehicles anywhere along the paved section of Lost River Road or in the Fun Rock parking lot ... Please use a blue bag when on route and take all of your trash home. We thank you for taking responsibility during your visit to help keep climbers in good relations with the local community. Welcome to the valley and safe climbing.
From the USFS:
When planning your visit to the Methow Valley, please choose an appropriate campsite and use established toilets, or pack it out in areas without toilets. The roadside pullouts below the Goat Wall and Gate Creek are NOT considered sustainable places to camp due to proximity to the Methow River and lack of toilets.
Please see the uploaded map "Camping for Climbers" for campgrounds ($8-12 per night) and low-impact FREE dispersed areas with toilets within a few miles of your favorite crag. Free sites include: Goat Creek and Yellowjacket SnoParks (April-October only), and dispersed sites west of Monument Creek Trailhead.
The Methow Valley Climbers, a chapter of the Washington Climbers Coalition, respectfully asks visiting climbers to NOT camp or sleep in your vehicles anywhere along the paved section of Lost River Road or in the Fun Rock parking lot ... Please use a blue bag when on route and take all of your trash home. We thank you for taking responsibility during your visit to help keep climbers in good relations with the local community. Welcome to the valley and safe climbing.
From the USFS:
When planning your visit to the Methow Valley, please choose an appropriate campsite and use established toilets, or pack it out in areas without toilets. The roadside pullouts below the Goat Wall and Gate Creek are NOT considered sustainable places to camp due to proximity to the Methow River and lack of toilets.
Please see the uploaded map "Camping for Climbers" for campgrounds ($8-12 per night) and low-impact FREE dispersed areas with toilets within a few miles of your favorite crag. Free sites include: Goat Creek and Yellowjacket SnoParks (April-October only), and dispersed sites west of Monument Creek Trailhead.
Description
Scramble up a green blocky corner, staying on the right-hand face for more authentic climbing. Pull up onto a ledge below a short 'chimney'. This is where the climb really starts. Fun edges and jugs climb up this chimney (watch out for cobwebs in the back) with the crux move emerging from the top of the chimney. Then move easily out left into a smooth slopey ledge that leads to the low 5th-class blocky corner and the chains.
The anchor chains felt poorly positioned. Watch out for carabiners being weighted over edges.
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