Type: Sport, 131 ft (40 m)
GPS: 32.32143, -110.71127
FA: Mike Russo, Zach Miller, Greg Kay- Jan '23 // EQP: Mike Russo
Page Views: 391 total · 10/month
Shared By: Michael Russo on Jan 13, 2023
Admins: adrian montaño, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen

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Description Suggest change

This line ascends the most obvious line up The Obelisk buttress.  A short, bouldery start with moves though sequences that require tension and body position that eventually gains a welcomed rest ledge. From there, leave the ledge and immediately move through four bolts that define the crux. Above this, climb easier terrain to reach the midpoint anchors. Rest here before questing upwards onto the exposed, blunted “arete”. The final half of the climb will test your route-reading skills, technique, and endurance on superb rock with excellent, exciting exposure and position on the way to the anchors.

Like the classic Latin aphorism which usually translates to "seize the day", the whole process of exploring, cleaning, developing, and climbing the Carpe Diem arete aligns with the sayings urge to make the most of the present time and give little thought to the future. I hope the process of climbing it also returns the same favor for many to come. Enjoy!

Notes: 

  • STICK CLIP STRONGLY RECOMMENDED
  • The first chain draw reached while lowering is helpful for cleaning the first 6 bolts of the route
  • This route can be done as a single pitch WITHOUT needing the midpoint anchors with an 80m rope but will require the full-rope with stretch. Unclipping nearly all the draws before the mid-point anchor on the way down should ensure you reach. TIE A KNOT
  • Alternatively, it can easily be climbed as a single pitch with a 70m while utilizing the mid-point anchors (a 60m has not been tested but might work)
  • Finally, the route could be broken into two pitches with a moderately comfortable belay at the mid-point anchors (proposed grade pitch 1: 12a, pitch 2: 5.11c)

Thanks to Isaac, Tim, and Luke for contributing the midpoint anchor hardware!

Location Suggest change

The route is located on the SE face of The Obelisk. See area description for approach details to belay ledge. 

Protection Suggest change

23 bolts, including two chain draws. Mid-point anchors with rap-rings, SS Fixe Draco anchors at the top.

Photos

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