Tim-Tam Slam

Mixed route, two pitches of easy to moderate climbing alternating between discontinuous cracks, knobs, and bulges. A good option for a moderate multi-pitch in the bear canyon area. Route climbs the chocolate-colored granite wall facing the road (W-SW aspect). Starts at right foot of main face and ascends trending left to the summit. See photos. Can be combined into one long pitch with 70m rope. Two rappels down the route (traversing slightly right) with a 70m to descend recommended.

Pitch 1 (30m) Direct start is under a dark roof with a black water stain – a high (brown) camouflaged bolt marks the start. Pull the roof and follow a nice crack that eats gear straight up past some resident vegetation. Moderate well protected climbing leads up to a second small roof and the bolted belay stance.  

Alternative start is 2 meters to the right, with a high first (grey) camouflaged bolt followed by mostly 5.6-5.7 climbing utilizing fun cracks and laybacks on positive holds. Trending hard left at a slab crux half-way rejoins the direct route, and leads to a small easily protected and surmounted roof. Five camouflaged bolts total (long slings to reduce drag on slab section) and gear is mostly finger size in small cracks and between plates. Bolted anchor/rap station on large comfy ledge near large alcove.

Pitch 2 (25m) climb hard left out of belay, up plates and knobs to roof/bulge with a circular green lichen spot. The roof pull is the crux of the route (protected by purple 0 Metolius) and climbs the right side of the roof with stemming and high feet. Four camouflaged bolts with mostly small to medium gear, optional #4 in large horizontal crack before the roof. Continue climbing highly textured rock utilizing small gear in left trending cracks (you’ll have to search for it) to the summit ledge. Bolted anchor, partially hanging belay. Easy to walk around on summit or stay on ledge to belay while you enjoy the view.

Descent: Two right trending rappels back down the route with a 70m to descend. Walk off also possible but not recommended.

Starts at right foot of main face and ascends trending left to the summit. See photos

Well protected with bolts where no natural protection available but be comfortable placing and making moves above gear. BD 0.1/Metolius 0 to BD #1, doubles in finger sizes. Crux is protected by a 0 metolius cam. Nuts (especially medium to large, favoring offsets) are very useful. One BD #4 or #5 if you want extra safe feelings. Bring extendable alpine draws to reduce drag. Midway and top anchors are bomber ½ SS anchors, use to rap on way down