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> Nomad Buttress
Tuni
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 3.1 from 7
votes
Routes in Nomad Buttress
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Divining Rod S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Fall Theory S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Fred S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Nomad Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Petrichor S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Tuni S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Sport, 160 ft (48 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | bmdhacks, Sep 2021 |
| Page Views: | 264 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | bmdhacks on Sep 22, 2022 |
| Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure at Newhalem Crags March 1st to mid-July
Details
Peregrine falcons select nest sites on cliffs in the Upper Skagit Valley, including the Climbing Management Areas of Newhalem West (Ryan’s Wall) and Newhalem East. As required in the NPS Superintendent’s Compendium, these areas will be closed to all public from March 1st to July 15th of each year, or until the young falcons have fledged or NPS staff have determined that nesting will not occur on a specific wall during this period. Access Fund, Washington Climbers Coalition and NPS partner on a volunteer raptor monitoring program to determine nesting activity. Contact the NPS and/or WCC for updates.
Description
Named after my grandmother, Eula 'Tuni' Spann Dixon, who deceased the week I established this climb.
P1 - 5.10b (33m) - Face climb up a low angle section up to a bulge and rightward undercling traverse. Then up a shallow crack to a bulge with a leftward step. Then right again on crack features to the top. Using long slings and back-cleaning can allow for P1 and P2 to link without too much rope drag. A 70m rope can be used to toprope P1.
P2 - 5.9 (20m) - Do a thin slab move (or cheat left) and follow the bolts to the top.
Descent - A bit of exposed scrambling up a 20' bulge can get you to walk off left, or you can rappel the route.
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