Type: Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches
GPS: 44.51694, -109.14137
FA: Justin Willis and Zach Lentsch
Page Views: 276 total · 7/month
Shared By: Zachary Lentsch on Sep 12, 2022
Admins: Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson

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Description Suggest change

One of the longer sandstone routes in the state on a cool prominent feature with awesome views of the canyon.  Oedipus Rex is the traddier, more adventurous of the two routes on the Sphinx Tower.

P1 - Moderate offwidth to an airy traverse left above a bolt.  Cruxy mantle into a thin crack then chimney to a bolted belay.  5.10, 40m.

P2 - Original route went right on the face, but much more straightforward going left via an awkward mantle onto the face.  Cool crimping above 3 bolts to a thin crack and one more bolt-protected face move to a bolted belay.  5.10-, 20m.

P3 - Climb bottomed-out corner past one bolt and mantle right of the diving board like feature.  Traverse left on the ledge to a cool finger crack crux and up to a bolted belay.  5.10+, 30m.

Descent: 2 rappels with a 60m rope

Location Suggest change

Right side of the south face of the Sphinx.  Gets afternoon shade.

Protection Suggest change

Single rack of cams .1-5, medium nuts, 6 draws, and slings to reduce drag.

Photos

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