The September Majesty
5.12b YDS 7b French 26 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E5 6b British
Avg: 4 from 2 votes
Type: | Trad, 50 ft (15 m) |
FA: | Billy K |
Page Views: | 611 total · 23/month |
Shared By: | Billy K on Jul 24, 2022 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki, Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
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Description
This majestic crack sits tucked away in a seldom-traveled area of Vedauwoo. The route is characterized by a slightly overhanging splitter that peters out just before it reaches the ground. Begin by executing a tricky but brief boulder problem to get established in the first good hand jams of the route about 15 feet up (V4/5, crux). From here, the crack jogs right, and from the ground, it appears to be quite tough; however, you'll find it's luckily (unluckily?) all swimmer hands and goes around 5.10+ to the top. This is a true boulderer's route and an easy tick for those with more brawn than brains.
In my opinion, this route is up there with the other 5.12 classics of the Voo. In fact, I think it's one of the most visually striking lines in the area. Go get you some.
Location
NOTE: from what I can tell, this crack is located on a small parcel of State land surrounded on 3 sides by the Furguson Ranch (private) and on one side by FS land (main Vedauwoo). Once at the crag, do not wander to the nearby rock piles to the south, east, or north, as they are on private land but not separated by any kind of fencing. This is my interpretation of the Wyoming ownership map, but I could be wrong. Don't go get yourself shot.
Park at the junction of Veduawoo road and Happy Jack Highway. Walk southwest for about 1/3 of a mile until you hit the barb wire fence marking the edge of FS land. You should see the south-facing shield that holds Majesty (see photos) from the fence. Here is where you need to take care. Align yourself directly north-to-south in line with the wall. Jump the fence, and then walk directly east to the crack. If you come from the south or north, you will be trespassing. The total approach is around 10 minutes.
Protection
I bouldered the first 20 feet with two pads and no spotters then rope soloed the rest. It felt safe that way. Finger and hand size cams/nuts protect well. There is a two bolt anchor on top.
You could also lead the initial boulder problem. Bring additional RPs and assorted smaller nuts for this. There is sufficient protection, but it'd be bold to go ground up. Also stopping in the crux to place the crucial nut adds a bit and would make this solid 12c.
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