Premonitions

A striking line, along a monzonite cliff band. You need a full 60m rope length to get to either an anchor off a tree, or the bolted anchors in a south facing exposed slab down and to climber's left of the tree. Climb follows up a base of WI3 for about 30m to a short, steep section, and then continues up into the corner over ice that can be thin and poorly bonded. The climb is out of the sun for most of the day until late afternoon light. Approach can be up the gully from the North Dry Creek/Horsetail falls trail from the foot bridge at the base of the gully, but there is a lot of bushwhacking. Climbers can also come in from the cliff band above to arrive at the base of the climb, but it's a good idea to bring a rope to make a hand line to drop in and climb out as the rock slab around the climb is ice covered in spots. Dropping in from above gives you a great view of the climb, and will make for a faster approach and exit.

Climb is located 1.8 miles from Phelps Canyon Parking lot. Can leave main trail at 1.6 miles in at coordinates 40.49571, -111.72765 to cut south, over to view of the climb, and descend down. Recommend taking a hand-line to anchor off a tree to make an easy lower down and fast ascent back out. Alternatively, climbers can boot up the gully from the first small foot bridge at the stream crossing just at about 1.5 miles in. Google maps link:

https://goo.gl/maps/3izqBeycnGiwe4Cj8

Will take full range of screws at the base, but be sure to take 10 cm stubbies as the top can be thin/poorly bonded. Chains will be installed at the rap anchors, but take quick links/bail carabiners in case they are not there.