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Purity Ring
5.13+ YDS 8b French 30 Ewbanks X- UIAA 31 ZA E7 7a British V9-10 YDS 7C+ Font
Avg: 4 from 8
votes
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Purity Ring T 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a V9-10 7C+ |
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| Type: | Trad, Boulder, 18 ft (5 m) |
| GPS: | 39.41295, -105.2545 |
| FA: | FKA: T Dz, with El P |
| Page Views: | 4,976 total · 86/month |
| Shared By: | T D on Dec 22, 2021 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure - at least until Aug. 1, 2026
Details
Per Josh: for the first time in at least 5 years, it appears we have nestlings at the peregrine falcon eyrie at Cathedral Spires! The breeding pair has been present and made attempts at nesting all those years but have not gotten this close to fledging a nest in that time.
Ornithologists across the Front Range have noted that migration and the onset of the avian breeding season seemed to be delayed by around 7-10 days this year, possibly because of the timing and amount of spring precipitation. The peregrines at Cathedral laid eggs later than usual. Because of that, their nestlings may not be ready to leave the nest by the time our usual seasonal closure would end, after July 31. As such, the closure this year will remain until at least August 15 (an opening of August 16). This should give the nestlings the time they need to finish development and leave the nest area.
2023 info: jeffco.us/1531/Alerts-Closures
The Cathedral Spires area, including Block Tower, Cynical Pinnacle, Snake Buttress, the Dome, Hall of Mirrors, Sunshine Wall, and Poe Buttress, are closed annually starting March 1 for raptor nesting. After careful monitoring of nest sites, Jefferson County Open Space opens certain areas of Cathedral Spires and maintain spot closures for active nests through July 31st. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates: jeffco.us/open-space/parks/…
Note, JeffCo Open Space has notified us that access to The Bishop and Poop Point (along with all the Cathedral Spires Area) currently goes across JeffCo OS land. Despite information in some guidebooks (published or soon-to-be-published), the entire Cathedral Spires area is subject raptor nesting closures. Please be aware of the hefty fines associated with failure to observe these regulations.
Description
Purity Ring is a stunningly beautiful, 45 degree overhanging, right-leaning, thin hands-to-ringlocks splitter crack. Not quite your desert splitter, this is a very bouldery crack climb.
Start sitting in a low hand jam pod. Work your way up utilizing thin hands, fingerstacks, and ringlocks. About halfway up, the crack jogs a bit right and ever-so-slightly narrows where you will have to fire on all cylinders for the next few feet 'til the rowdy heartbreaker crux near the lip of the overhang. The rest of the climb is easy and enjoyable 5.6 fingercrack to the top.
If you did this before me (December '21), feel free to speak up in the comments.
Location
Follow the approach from the previous page, and keep an eye out on your left as you head up the trail. There will be an obvious outcropping of boulders in a gully - this one has a crack cleaving the boulder in half and is about 25 feet off the trail. It is pretty obvious from the trail, and there is a climber's trail that leads right up to the boulder.
Protection
The landing is pretty flat but I would recommend 3-4 pads and a spotter. Don't leave pads please, just make some friends and force them to climb with you.
I highly recommend sussing the final moves on a fixed line. A good anchor can be made from a flake behind the boulder with 2 finger sized cams and a #1 C4.
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Videos
4 Comments