Kids with Guns

Overview: The climbing is fun and thoughtful throughout. Ledges and stances at each belay are nice and roomy (some are roomier than others). The line and bolting are great; sturdy clip stances and no rope drag. Pitch 1 climbs blockier, mantly terrain while Pitches 2 and 3 climb steep, clean cracks. All anchors are bolted. Retreat with one 70m rope or walk off toward Tick Farm area.

Pitch 1, 5.10 PG13: Not dangerous, but can be heady with some loose rock and runouts. Very fun and thoughtful climbing. Climb easier-moderate moves to a high first bolt. Trend right to the next bolt and climb up broken blocky corner with a marginal small cam placement. Follow bolts and decrypt bob-and-weave climbing with some mantles and more marginal gear up to anchor.

Pitch 2, 5.10+: The money pitch. Climb easy terrain to a ledge that you'll follow back left to the base of the crack. The guide recommends using a 0.75 in the pod, but not until after you've climbed past it (so as not to eliminate your best hold). I used a larger red DMM offset nut from below and was then still able to use the pod as a hold. Crack is very well protected throughout. Pull over steep lip and continue up slab to anchors.

Pitch 3, 5.10+: Climb left on crimps up to pob below flake/bulge thing. Make big move up to flake (crux) then continue up weakness to a small ledge. Place small cams and wires and continue to anchors. Shorty pitch.

Pitch 3 Variation, 5.10: Not as good as the regular route but still worth the time! After climbing the regular line, drop back down to the ledge and lead this pitch. Climb to the right from the ledge for 10 feet. Make spooky moves into crack and jame up to easier ground.

Retreat with one 70m rope or walk off toward Tick Farm area.

Kids is the first route on the White Wall. Just after passing Pirates Cove the trail steepens. Look for the large pine towards the top of the wall, starting bolts trending right and up through the right of the chossy roof feature. Also look for the splitter second pitch.

The guide says ~ 2x 0.2" 1", 1x 2" and 3", small wires are useful but not necessary for the first pitch, draws/runners ~ It also recommends a 0.75 in the route description. I was glad I brought extra small cams and a set of nuts including micros. All anchors are bolted, one with rings one with quicklinks and one with rings on tat (at time of writing October 2021). Recommend bringing extra webbing in case you need to replace sun-beaten tat.