Type: Trad, Alpine, 280 ft (85 m), 4 pitches
GPS: 48.75818, -116.73151
FA: Zach Holt and Bjorn Ernst
Page Views: 794 total · 14/month
Shared By: Zach Holt on Jul 25, 2021 · Updates
Admins: Mike Engle, Eric Bluemn

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

This climb is characterized by a widening crack (fingers to hands) up a fairly low angle slab. The crux is prior to this, and climbs twin seams up a slab. The route has some bolts, but is predominately protected by gear.

One could venture over to this climb after climbing the Gateway, but much bushwhacking would be involved.

The best approach is via the large trench splitting the dome, or the start of Lion King, taking a left at the y in the bolts. From here, one would enter the trench. Either way, to get to WS, a scramble up the ramp (climbers left) once you hit the massive gray chock stone plugging up the trench. It’s huge, you’ll know when you hit it. There is a two bolt anchor after scrambling the ramp. From here, an approach pitch 5.5? Will get you to the base of the route.

Pitch 1- 5.8, twin seams, crux (bolts) followed by a lie back crack and finally a traverse right to the anchor.

Pitch 2 - 5.7, a single bolt protects the climber until the seem turns to finger crack, and then continues widening to a good hand crack. 

Pitch 3 - 5.5, hand crack continues up even lower angle slab until pulling a bulge to final anchor.

3 more low 5th class pitches could take you to the top, but protection is very scarce. 

70 meter rope required and knot the ends! 

Location Suggest change

Upper half of the left side of the massive dome, but just outside the trench. A crack splitting the creamy white slab is pretty visible from trail or parking lot.

Protection Suggest change

Some bolts, mostly gear

Photos

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