Kuriositeten

The write up from the FA describes fun and interesting climbing that is destined to be an area classic. If you like water ice climbing, it’d be hard to not like this climb. When we got on it (April 24 2021) we found three solid pitches of water ice with snow / alpine ice scattered in between. Temps were consistently above freezing during the day so we climbed at night to avoid rockfall as it’s a classic garbage chute.

P1 was zesty a vertical snow/ice chimney that got me soaked to my undies, followed by some steep snow to the base of p2 (60ish m). P2 was perfect plastic ai3-4 to the main snow bowl in the middle of the gully. Above that we simuled for about 4 or 5 rope lengths to the base of the best pitches of ice I’ve climbed: 60 ish meters of wi5ish that eased up to wi3ish near the top. A few more ropelengths of steep snow got us to the ridge.

The ice was spectacular, and the snow was not too postholy. We got to the base of the route at midnight and topped out at 8a, moving deliberately but not too fast. The backside of the peak was less glaciated than other peaks which allowed for relatively easy descent to the pass and back to our skis at the base.  

Between dickey and Bradley in 747 pass. The climb takes the obvious gully that tops out at the notch in the middle of the unnamed peak. Route starts climbers left of the gully and angles right. 

We brought 8 screws and used em all, placed one each 0.3-0.75 but could have gotten by with just screws for the conditions we encountered