All Locations > Utah > Southeast Utah > San Juan County > Island In The Sky > Sandcastle

Waves

Name: Waves
Rating: 2.0

5.10 YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British C3 PG13

Routes in Sandcastle

Waves T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C3 PG13

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Type:	Trad, Aid, 350 ft (106 m), 5 pitches, Grade IV
GPS:	38.39127, -109.8395
FA:	Jim Bodenhamer and Al Torrisi 4/14/1993
Page Views:	571 total · 9/month
Shared By:	Ben Kiessel on Apr 14, 2021
Admins:	slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas. Details

WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.

RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring. Indian Creek Raptor Closure walls include: Echos, The Wall, Far Side, Original Meat, Tenderloins, Second Meat, First Meat, Selfish, Six Star, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall, Critic’s Choice.

Description

Pitch 1-

Free climb onto a ledge 15’ up then cut left to a good splitter in a right facing corner to another ledge. Continue up a left facing corner. To a ledge with an anchor on the right. 5.10 80’

Pitch 2-

Continue up the obvious broken crack system to a chock stone roof. I cut right at the roof but left looked like it would also go free. Scramble left to another anchor. 5.10 60’ (I linked pitches 1 and 2)

Pitch 3-

Tension traverse left off the anchor to some tricky free/aid climbing to a stance and a good thin splitter. Follow the splitter up as it gets thinner. Get as high as possible and stick clip a drilled pin above. This section maybe could be passed without the stick clip with multiple of the smallest Lowe balls but maybe not. Continue up easier aiding to a steep section and head left. There is an old empty drilled pin hole here that I didn’t use but might work for bat hooking or a hand placed baby angle. Tiny cams led to a dead end for me so I used a stick clip to place a #5 in a flare above then free climbed off that placement to a stance and more easy free to a big ledge. 5.10 C3 120’ (I found climbing shoes helpful on this pitch since I climbed out of my aiders multiple times.)

Pitch 4-

DR1 says head up and right. After looking that way I opted to head up and left. Aid off the ledge and around the corner free climbing in spots. Pass a fixed pin and continue to another ledge. Anchor was a combo of fixed pins and #4 cams. 5.9 C2 80’

Pitch 5-

A drilled angle leads to ledge, two more fixed angles leads to another. I stick clipped a final drilled angle but you could probably free climb to it. The summit anchor is a 10’ scramble below the true summit. 5.8 C1 80’

Descent-

A single rope rappel got us to the top of pitch 4, where there was a rappel anchor on the prow that wasn’t mentioned in DR1. Then another single rope rap to the top of pitch 3. Then a double rope rap to the top of pitch 2. We skipped the P1 anchor and did one more double rope rap to the ground.