Killer Whale

Update: Killer Whale is now a killer sport route!

I put this route together (on solo TR) because I wanted to make something that featured the other side of the giant pointed roof above The Flake. I discovered the left side a few years ago while working its length out and up the arête. There’s a huge hueco that I could put both my hands into as I moved out to the point. It was only later when I was setting up for another climb did I look over and see that that overhanging block looked like the head of a whale and the hueco was a perfect eye! The climb as a whole is pretty killer taking into account the Africa Wall part which is sparse of holds, and the traverse out and up the whale head arête is all power. Hence the name Killer Whale.

The start is right below the first bolt then continue to the ledge at the base of Africa. Once there, stay right, but the arête is off. Work that section to the top then walk ahead a few feet to the whale head. Clip into the permadraw. Then, move your hands out and into the eye while anchoring your feet below and get ready for the crux. With your right hand, reach out and grab the nose. Break your feet loose, find new feet, and dead point up higher with your right. Once locked in high, pull up, get your left foot in the eye and stand up. Now up and over. Just like that.

Lower Off hooks are up and to your left. Clip clip and lower.

Main Wall.

6 Wave glue-ins to Wave glue-ins and Lower Off anchor hooks. Bolt 6 has a permadraw attached for better protection of the crux.