Don Julio
5.11 YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E4 5c British
| Type: | Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 5 pitches, Grade III |
| GPS: | 32.36622, -110.89644 |
| FA: | David Tellechea, Ethan Sandoval. (FFA Jon ( Julio) Reeves, DjTelle, Logan Hoskisson) |
| Page Views: | 1,121 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | Dj Telle on Oct 12, 2019 · Updates |
| Admins: | adrian montaño, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
Description
North/Northeast facing. Don Julio climbs up a singular weakness to a summit that feels more exposed than Finger Rock itself!
P1 | 5.8 | ~50': Climb blocky terrain up to a ledge and belay, or link easily with P2.
P2 | 5.10 | ~80': Follow a series of double cracks using hand jams, stems and laybacks where you can either cut right below OW/chimney to finger size gear or climb the 5.9 OW variation (probably bring a #5 for this?). Belay on the large "Agave Ledge".
P3 | 5.11 | ~100': Keep following the crack system up through a sick 10' overhanging hand crack (lol oh Lemmon). Place a high piece, and crack switch right to a stance. Weird/small gear takes you up to good ledge. Belay using bolt backed up with a high #2.
P4 | 5.10 | 80': Traverse right on foot ledge, pull a crimpy crux then follow large juggy features and belay on large ledge.
P5 | 4th | 20' : Scramble to the true summit and down climb. The top of this tower is so small that one at a time works best. enjoy!
Protection
2x from #00-#4, wires and a wide selection of RPs
Optional #5 for OW variation
2 ropes
Equivalent of 2 double lengths of webbing/cord for the rappels.
Descent : Pine tree at the summit just right of P4 top out.. 2 60 meters will take you to the next ledge below a huge roof.
One more single rap to your packs.



1 Comment